Proper Clutch Installation 206

What do you mean it does not line up ? Which way do you want to run it ? inboard (driver towards engine) or outboard (driver towards the seat) What kind of clutch are you using ?
 
Kj26 said:
What do you mean it does not line up ? Which way do you want to run it ? inboard (driver towards engine) or outboard (driver towards the seat) What kind of clutch are you using ?
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The driver is likely too close to the seat strut so he has to run it inboard.
 
it is outboard because it won't clear the hanger, so I was wondering if I had to put a washer before the clutch. How do you torque it?
 
The washer is used to prevent the clutch bore from jamming against the fillet machined into the step of the crankshaft. To answer your question yes you need to use the washers unless you have a chamfer machined into the clutch to clear the fillet. The bolt is self tightening as the engine rotates, I usually snug it up and you could tap the wrench with a hammer.
 
Ok so you wanted to run it inboard as normal, but it won't clear "the hanger". What is the hanger ? I've had 6 different clutches on our 206's and never had an issue. Our new Hilliard Flames with the bully conversion uses 6 spacers against the motor before the driver.
If you got it to work now that's great, just interested in what clutch/hanger your having issues with.
 
I've seen many clutches come off because the bolt fell out.
I use an electric impact to tighten the bolt. TIGHT
The hub of the Premier Stinger does not have enough relief to prevent it from wedging to the radius of the crank.
Use a washer or clutch mfg supplied spacer before installing the clutch.
Make sure the clutch over hangs the end of the crank so that when you tighten the clutch bolt the washer pinches the clutch up tight against the shoulder of the crank or key way damage will occur.
I use a 5/16 x 24 x 3/4" serrated Flange head bolt and a 1/8" fender washer to hold the clutch on.
 
This is from the Hilliard website: The crankshaft should be approximately 1/32” longer than the clutch assembly. This will make sure the clutch has some free end play to move. You must not clamp tight against the clutch
with the bolt and retaining washer or the bronze bushing will fail.
 
This is from the Max-Torque website: This month's hint: DO NOT ever use a 3/4" bore washer "on" the shaft or set screws to permanently position your clutch. (The only exception is a two piece clutch.) The standard clutch is no longer drilled and tapped for set screws because they are not needed. You never fix both sprockets in a locked position. Only the axle sprocket needs to be in a fixed position. A clutch must be able to float on the crankshaft so it can self align.
 
Different clutches have different installation techniques due to their design philosophy. Some float, some are secured in a manner to prevent float. Follow the clutch manufactures instructions for best results.
 
IMHO
Go ahead and install your clutch with free play and then call me when you need a new LO 206 short block, and clutch. I'll gladly take $300.00 to $500.00 from you for the new block, clutch and shipping.
Engrave my phone number on the clutch somewhere that won't be destroyed when you use a torch and a puller to get the clutch off the next time.
Here's my number for you 920-2067-9180.
I'd suggest you click on the link above in the original post and watch the video from Briggs Racing about clutch installation. It's 100% accurate.
Frankly, the clutch companies are wrong if they are telling you to allow the clutch hub to float on the crankshaft!
The clutch hub should NEVER float on the crankshaft of a LO 206 or Animal!
However, the clutch drum should have some free play.
If you need to allow the entire clutch to float to line up with the rear sprocket you need a better way of lining up the rear sprocket with the clutch sprocket!
You can buy a laser clutch alignment tool if necessary.
I'm sorry for being so blunt.
 
Well I just got done talking to tech at Max-Torque, and he said to go ahead and do what Briggs wants for clutch installation. This is not what he prefers but he does not want his clutches breaking Briggs crankshafts. Now I'm in a quandary...I have two products made by reputable companies, and one says to not use the others as they have designed. I didn't even call Hilliard to see what they say. This kinda sucks
 
jamiespop said:
Well I just got done talking to tech at Max-Torque, and he said to go ahead and do what Briggs wants for clutch installation. This is not what he prefers but he does not want his clutches breaking Briggs crankshafts. Now I'm in a quandary...I have two products made by reputable companies, and one says to not use the others as they have designed. I didn't even call Hilliard to see what they say. This kinda sucks
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Believe me when I tell you don't leave free axial free play. It is not that you will break cranks it is you will hammer out the keyway slot in the crank. Going from Hondas which we used to run free play to Briggs which we don't cost me a few cranks before I realized what was going on. The Hondas and Chondas have a much harder crank perhaps but we used to slot those out too just not as bad. Do as Jimbo says and you won't have an issue. It is that backlash that hammers out the keyway slot if left with freeplay.

Greg
 
jamiespop said:
Yeah I did this but now I can't help but think the Briggs crank is made poorly.
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I hope you are not basing that on my above posts. The cranks are quite nice and are forged. They had a few issues early in the transition to forged but no issues for years. I just think and I am only guessing that they cut the keyway after the heat treat process. The keyway slot is then less hard than the rest of the crank. Or they could be just a different physical makeup then the Honda as far as material. Done right the crank will outlast the clutch. Or the motor will wear out before the crank. I am on the fourth season on my daughters lo206 and it still rocks!!!

Greg
 
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