push

K

KOZ RACING

New member
Ok so we have a push going in,so we put a 22 on the frount right to help and it did. My question is how can I correct the problem with out the tire change or is that the best way to fix the push? Are #'s are 47.5f ,56.5l ,62c on b33a's all around. 2013 axiom 1 1/2 f stagger and 1 3/4 r stagger the track is a 1/12 low to med bite and we run clone lights at 340 any help would be great fighting this problem a while. Thanks to all
 
several things you could do... the first thing i would do is goto NOGOATSRACING.com and print the info for kart adjustments. but more rear stagger, more positive lf camber, harder lr tire.
 
What is your rear track width and position of RR tire, and what are your cambers.
If it's off going in look to the front, if it's off in the middle look at cambers, spacing, If it's off coming out look to the rear. And ya ALWAYS must be looking at Tires.
 
Ok so we have a push going in,so we put a 22 on the front right to help and it did. My question is how can I correct the problem with out the tire change or is that the best way to fix the push? Are #'s are 47.5f ,56.5l ,62c on b33a's all around. 2013 axiom 1 1/2 f stagger and 1 3/4 r stagger the track is a 1/12 low to med bite and we run clone lights at 340 any help would be great fighting this problem a while. Thanks to all
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When you say it helped, does it mean it fixed the problem?

If it did you were either fast and either won or could have won, is that the case?

If not you either have other problems or it didn't fix anything. It just masked and maybe made it harder to see the real problem. Forget the last sentence if it did make you fast enough to win. In that case, yep and sure it certainly was the best way to fix your particular push.
 
Lowering nose weight for a push in will only make it worse, the right front is lacking grip now that's why the softer right front helped, but NO and a BIG No that's not the method to fix the problem.
 
racing promotor said:
Lowering nose weight for a push in will only make it worse, the right front is lacking grip now that's why the softer right front helped, but NO and a BIG No that's not the method to fix the problem.
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not necessarily, there is a tipping point in nose percentage where to much can have an adverse affect on handling. for example take a shopping kart, place a 12 pack at the very front and then try to turn it verse having nothing in the basket. It will be much harder to turn. (yes in this example there would be well over 75% nose weight but it still has merit). Depending on the chassis he could be over the tipping point and instead of helping the kart point and turn it's causing it to push by overloading the front tires. I don't know what chassis he's riding and we do need to know to better help him.
 
apex96 said:
not necessarily, there is a tipping point in nose percentage where to much can have an adverse affect on handling. for example take a shopping kart, place a 12 pack at the very front and then try to turn it verse having nothing in the basket. It will be much harder to turn. (yes in this example there would be well over 75% nose weight but it still has merit). Depending on the chassis he could be over the tipping point and instead of helping the kart point and turn it's causing it to push by overloading the front tires. I don't know what chassis he's riding and we do need to know to better help him.
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Agreed but the tipping point on a Slack Axiom would not be little over 47% they like good nose, take an older chassis that likes say 44.5 % then ya little over 47 % might do it but I hear ya, read Tood's books or look at a cheat sheet for Push in first thing it's gonna say is ADD nose but since he's already over 47% I would not do that I'd look elsewhere, but I highly dought taking nose away is gonna fix this one, I'm curious to see his rear wheel positioning and cambers to see if there close if not that could be his problem. Great post on the other thread by the way VERY good info hope it helps him out.
 
Thanks guys for the help. It did help and handled real good ,and won. The rr is 3/16 off frame and the track is 39 1/4 rf camber is 1 3/4 lf camber is .5
 
Thanks guys for the help. It did help and handled real good ,and won. The rr is 3/16 off frame and the track is 39 1/4 rf camber is 1 3/4 lf camber is .5
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To answer your original question Your problem is your Rt Fr camber 1.75 not enough Increase it to at least 2.5 should be 2.75, then if your loose off is not over steer move the RR in as close as you can get it without hitting, left rear should be 3/4" off the hanger bracket for the cassett. It's great that your beating your competition however your letting SPEED on the table with that chassis.

Good Luck !!
 
Found out the hard way - Moving your seat too far left, or too much weight LR throws everything off at the RF with weight transfer, Had to move my seat left because of bigger motor /pipe - moved the seat just 3/4 inch to the right and wala... push be gone.
 
It would be interesting to know the radius of the turns. Also, how long are the straights? Or if there is any straight section at all. 440 feet is a really small track. Walk across the infield between the straights, one step is about three feet, count the steps. Practice your steps of the yardstick or tape measure. This will give you the radius of the turns and a much better way to calculate the stagger. Just as a guess, you might need more.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)
 
I agree with Ken.

With that kind of Camber you would need to increase Caster in order to get the tire to see enough camber gain to allow for it to "roll over" onto the RF. Or secrease the cross significantly.
 
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