Ratios....Not a Debate

Wacomike04

Member
First off I'm not always correct on anything:

So with that being said I hope what I offered made sense to you just starting out. and ... ?
I'm not into trying to remember what to do for anything, I'm into trying to understand how to use what your racing efficiently and if you can do that you will be fast, per ... theory on how stuff works.

Your original concern was about IMHO ... "how the heck do I know if my gearing is ok especially if I have a lot of other stuff off?".
ok I hope?

IMHO Throw rpm into the wind is a good way to help you get fast being new.
IT NETS OUT TO throw what ever gear you have to throw at it to get your RPM's to where everyone says they should be.
If you throw too much gear to it it will suck the life out of your engine and you will be a toad.
If you throw the right gear to it ... "for your experience level" you will hit the RPM everyone says you should but you will not be as fast as those who are into the game with experience and skill.
... So what the heck should you do?
1. throw gear at it until you either hit your RPM goal, which if I'm reading correctly you CAN do.
2. If that's the case there is no number 2 so flush and move on.
3. After that it's about doing stuff to get around the track better allowing you to take a tooth or two off and move on.
4. There is no number 4 because the whole game is about being able to get around the track efficiently with the least amount of gear on.

5. ... it's late and let me know if what I spent so much time and effort writing made any sense to you?
6. ??? bed time as soon as the Chargers kick Denver Butt. ... :)

It all nets out to make your expected rpm, get around the track better then take gear off and go faster.
it's a game about being able to go faster then the other guy or gal and having a better chance to win. ... period.

You said your a beginner and I tried to explain the game to you.
What you do from here out is about how you play the game.
What makes YOUR game fun for us on here is to be a part of your game and read about your "FIRST" win.
If we hear that ... we all win in our individual way. ... :)

edit: me i'm all about the BS of it.
I know the folks at the track saying "forget about rpms" have a point when a guy doing 7260 rpms (that's his only focus is rpms) loses handily and all season to a guy doing 6690 rpms and wins the championship. I have been told many times to forget rpms and go for power.
 

paulkish

old fart
I know the folks at the track saying "forget about rpms" have a point when a guy doing 7260 rpms (that's his only focus is rpms) loses handily and all season to a guy doing 6690 rpms and wins the championship. I have been told many times to forget rpms and go for power.
... excuse me butt there all full of crap and BS as I like to say but in reality is BULLL . !
your being handled. ... period and take it to the bank there screwing with you

MOVE ON and get fast.
Sounds like your racing against a bunch of toads

... well I ain't necessarily right anyway because this is all IMHO.
 
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mike97760

Site Supporter
In legal clone racing 6930 is pretty much the target rpm so you are good, gear-wise, at that point. If you are turning those rpms and still getting beat the problem is tires and chassis setup, as many have told you already. When you make the kart faster you can start dropping teeth of the rear gear because you will be turning too many rpms after the corrections. RPMs, despite what you have been told, are a good indicator of of progress in your chassis and tire improvements. Time to get to work.
 

racing promotor

Moderator
In legal clone racing 6930 is pretty much the target rpm so you are good, gear-wise, at that point. If you are turning those rpms and still getting beat the problem is tires and chassis setup, as many have told you already. When you make the kart faster you can start dropping teeth of the rear gear because you will be turning too many rpms after the corrections. RPMs, despite what you have been told, are a good indicator of of progress in your chassis and tire improvements. Time to get to work.
Solid advise, but first drop 2 teeth off the rear and confirm your results, if you loose rpms around 170 that confirms your current gearing matches the current level your at, however if your rpms stay real close the same that confirms you were gearbound so remove more from rear until you loose rpms.
At that point you can follow advise above. Or you could remove 2 more from rear which should have you turning close right at 6800 rpm and work on set up. Tires and maximizing momentum until your turning 6950 rpm then pull 2 more off rear and repeat and let the stop watch dictate how many times you repeat.
 

Jeff99

Member
My son races omp also. I do believe it’s 1/7 mile not 1/8. 1/8=660ft. Omp Is 750ft x 40 wide
It’s definitely momentum track with 10* banking. We ran a 15/56 the first time there and a 15/64 the second time. 15/56 was definitely faster after a lap. Faster take off with 15/64. But not enough top speed
 
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racing promotor

Moderator
My son races omp also. I do believe it’s 1/7 mile not 1/8. 1/8=660ft. Omp Is 750ft x 40 wide
It’s definitely momentum track with 10* banking. We ran a 15/56 the first time there and a 15/64 the second time. 15/56 was definitely faster after a lap. Faster take off work 15/64. But not enough top speed
What class was that for sir, adult clone as well. ?
 

Wacomike04

Member
My son races omp also. I do believe it’s 1/7 mile not 1/8. 1/8=660ft. Omp Is 750ft x 40 wide
It’s definitely momentum track with 10* banking. We ran a 15/56 the first time there and a 15/64 the second time. 15/56 was definitely faster after a lap. Faster take off work 15/64. But not enough top speed
I take advice, no offense, from kid karts and that hurt me badly at the start. I try now and focus on clone heavy info now. Kid karts or rev limiting info tends to jack me up all sorts of ways.

5600 rpm and 7200 rpm combined with weight differences......way different. But thank you for the info.
 
My son races omp also. I do believe it’s 1/7 mile not 1/8. 1/8=660ft. Omp Is 750ft x 40 wide
It’s definitely momentum track with 10* banking. We ran a 15/56 the first time there and a 15/64 the second time. 15/56 was definitely faster after a lap. Faster take off work 15/64. But not enough top speed
Why are you and he both jumping so many teeth? you were really that far off?

In response to the other post... A legal clone is about 7k, if someone is claiming 7200 i'm saying they are up to no good, be it jacking with you or cheating who knows.
 

Jeff99

Member
I take advice, no offense, from kid karts and that hurt me badly at the start. I try now and focus on clone heavy info now. Kid karts or rev limiting info tends to jack me up all sorts of ways.
I was just putting it out there that the track was bigger than 1/8 mile. 100 ft makes a difference when Gearing a small motor
 

Jeff99

Member
My son was getting jumped by a few kart lengths at the starts or restarts so i thought that that bigger rear would help.
 
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My son was getting jumped by a few kart lengths at the starts or restarts so i thought that that bigger rear would help.
Ok, my opinion would be a tooth, maybe two. Then evaluate the data. Changing 7 teeth when you are in the ballpark doesn't make much sense to me.

Like the other guy mentioned stall maybe an issue as well. 2200 is red plate territory. Try to up it 2800-3000(this is a guess maybe a clutch guy will jump in) We got out of karts during purple plate so not alot of knowledge for stall in Jr3.
 
With being outweighed worry about what your RPM is off the corner not the top max rpm….. I am too over weight to run clone adult 375. I don’t care what I end up on with my front driver. I shoot for 6300rpm off the corner and adjust my rear if I’m not pulling anymore at the end of the straight away…. Set up and tires before gearing imo….
 
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