Rebuilding Clutches
- Thread starter rlslmshdy
- Start date
SoCo Tire Treatments
Moderator
Do you want to go off from who paid to have the rebuilder do it, or you also counting the rebuilders who contacted the karter and said heres a clutch, advertise for me?
Good question. I guess I'd like to see which clutch guru is performing the best regardless if they gave the team their services or the team paid for it.
alvin l nunley
Site Supporter
If a clutch is holding the engine at peak torque on the starts, and isn't producing a lot of extra heat, that's the best it can do. It makes no difference what brand or type of clutch it is, it just has to hold the engine at peak torque and not produce a lot of extra heat.
It's a little different on the top end. All clutches slip a tiny little bit every time the spark plug fires on the power stroke. The bigger that little tiny slip gets, the slower you get on the top-end. Because you're getting less power to the rear wheels as that little slip gets bigger and bigger, the slower you're going. Between clutches, that tiny little slip probably will not be felt, but if you have a tack, you might see less RPM. The bigger that little slip becomes, the less power to the rear wheels. There are a lot of other things that can cause the same RPM loss, so it's hard to pin down as to what's causing it.
My theory is, (and of course theories can be wrong) as long as your stall RPM doesn't change, and there's no increase in the amount of detectable heat produced, the clutch is doing all that a clutch can do. (A hint; this is where an infrared heat gun comes in handy) No amount of anything, including rebuilding the clutch, will change that. Now with time, if the stall RPM goes up, it may be time for a refresh. (I'm talking about shoe clutches) If the stall RPM goes down, even though a lot of things can cause that, other than the clutch, it may be time for a refresh.
One thing to remember; as an engine breaks in, as the compression goes up, and the peak torque increases, this can also affect the stall RPM of the clutch. Just something to keep in mind. I'm a firm believer in knowing the cranking compression pressure of the engine. I even go as far as to say; compression is the Holy Grail.
It's a little different on the top end. All clutches slip a tiny little bit every time the spark plug fires on the power stroke. The bigger that little tiny slip gets, the slower you get on the top-end. Because you're getting less power to the rear wheels as that little slip gets bigger and bigger, the slower you're going. Between clutches, that tiny little slip probably will not be felt, but if you have a tack, you might see less RPM. The bigger that little slip becomes, the less power to the rear wheels. There are a lot of other things that can cause the same RPM loss, so it's hard to pin down as to what's causing it.
My theory is, (and of course theories can be wrong) as long as your stall RPM doesn't change, and there's no increase in the amount of detectable heat produced, the clutch is doing all that a clutch can do. (A hint; this is where an infrared heat gun comes in handy) No amount of anything, including rebuilding the clutch, will change that. Now with time, if the stall RPM goes up, it may be time for a refresh. (I'm talking about shoe clutches) If the stall RPM goes down, even though a lot of things can cause that, other than the clutch, it may be time for a refresh.
One thing to remember; as an engine breaks in, as the compression goes up, and the peak torque increases, this can also affect the stall RPM of the clutch. Just something to keep in mind. I'm a firm believer in knowing the cranking compression pressure of the engine. I even go as far as to say; compression is the Holy Grail.
jack burroughs
member
I do my own, Tomars are very user friendly, I get replacement parts from Laukaitis.
XXX#40
2A supporter
Find someone local, they will appreciate the business and will save on shipping, and on hand if you have a problem
Well I agree and I disagree. I can see the benefits of going local but I'm want the best clutch I can get. Since 2004 ive never had a single problem with my bully. Their almost bullet proof. So having my clutch guy close by isn't a big deal other than like you say saving on shipping. All that being said before I quit I always used a local kart shop.
XXX#40
2A supporter
And every clutch re builder does basically the same thing, theres only limited ways to rebuild one, they all use genuine bully parts and disc's
Holeshot says they use a proprietary disk.
Michael Curry
Member
If I didn't have access to the grinding equipment, I would prep my hub and activator assembly, and send it to someone who could resurface it for me. I would then finish assemble it myself.
We sell 11 different disks, but I would only use genuine Bully or Genuine SMC.......unless I was looking to save $20.00
As far as springs, genuine Bully brand Red, Black, or Blue Springs are the only thing you need to consider putting in a Bully.
And floaters are less than $15 each. Personally, I would NEVER use a used floater with new linings on a Bully (or an SMC)
We sell 11 different disks, but I would only use genuine Bully or Genuine SMC.......unless I was looking to save $20.00
As far as springs, genuine Bully brand Red, Black, or Blue Springs are the only thing you need to consider putting in a Bully.
And floaters are less than $15 each. Personally, I would NEVER use a used floater with new linings on a Bully (or an SMC)
Fast Forward Karting
Member
Tons of great builders out there...... Call them all and go with who you feel the most comfortable with.
Grasshopper
New member
martinbuilt clutches
Yes that's what I made this thread to hopefully get names of the top guys so I can research and find one I like. As of now I don't know who the top guys are. Can you all list them or is that top secret.
Grasshopper
New member
david martin , Martinbuilt clutches,, hes on here alot