Track Tac

Setting camber

All karts are different. I know if My rage Buggy is on the scales I'm going to have about 1/4 more negative Camber on the rf when I sit in it. My slack open kart I'll get about 1/2 more negative.
 
We've found that for our current driver it makes no difference when adjusting camber, castor and toe, but he's still growing. :) I expect, as he gets heavier, that sooner or later we'll find an anomaly or two, as mentioned above by Tonypowerkartsupply.
 
You race the kart when your sitting in it, so that is how the camber should be set, with the driver in the seat, as races. Unless you race the stands thru the pits? Lol
 
What he was saying was he has so much lead on the kart because his kid is so little it doesnt really matter if he/she is in the kart or not.... a buddy of mine did that as well, just stuck 40/50#s of lead in the seat and it was close enough ;)
 
Tarheel_45 said:
When using an accuetoe to set toe, will having lead in the rear axle affect where you have to set the toe?
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No. With or without lead in the right rear axel cassette, it will not affect how you adjust/check toe. Adjusting lead with the axel will slightly change the angle of the chassis in relation to the axel. However, you will still square one side of the kart ( LR with LF spindles) and toe out the other side (RR with RF spindle.)
 
You don't have to set camber with driver in go cart.

If your getting camber numbers from someone else you should clarify with them how they took the readings. You should also share that info if giving your camber numbers out.

The key is to do it the same way every time and document the changes.

On my personally chassis I checked what the camber changed with me in seat and out of seat. Then I keep that in mind when setting camber in the future as I do it without me on the go cart. I've never been able to set camber while I'm on go cart. I can only do so many things by myself.
 
Lead or lag in the axle does not affect toe. It will however affect the squareness of the go cart. And if you change lead or lag you should re square the go cart to match the change.
 
Not sure, but Camber on a Kart has noting to do with weight in or out the kart, Because it has fixed axles and suspenison noting there to flex, just make sure the wheels is straight ahead....I am talking about camber only ........
 
Camber does change with weight in the cart. So does toe. Caster. And chain tension.

The frame is the suspension. Frame along with components all have built in flex. Those flex points and amounts are what make every chassis different.
 
Also if you set camber with 1.75 front and 1.5 rear stagger and go to a track with 1.25 and 1.0 rear stagger you need to re set your camber as it will have changed quite a bit
 
W5R said:
You race the kart when your sitting in it, so that is how the camber should be set, with the driver in the seat, as races. Unless you race the stands thru the pits? Lol
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You race the kart with the settings it needs. When it doesn't make a difference, you set them with or without the driver, when it makes a difference, you have him in the kart. At this stage in my driver's career, it's very handy that it doesn't matter, as he is not always available; when he gets heavy enough to make a difference, life will be a bit more annoying. How you race the kart has no bearing on whether the driver needs to be in it for setup; whether or not having the driver in it changes the settings is what governs that decision. And even when it does make a difference, if you keep an accurate log and record the change(s) having the driver in the kart makes, you can, as pointed out above by Coty Morrow, make the necessary changes without having the driver available. Come shop time that's very handy for a one person operation - we don't all have the luxury of always having help in the shop or having the driver available.
 
That's me. I have trust issues and usually work on my own stuff when no one is around so I can focus. So doing things by myself with maybe the wife's help lifting and handing me weights or what not is sometimes the best a guy can do.

I've help several national racers scale. And let's just say it's not as much rocket science as I have read about in here
 
Maybe you could back what you say up with some facts ?

If you do your process the same each and every time it doesn't matter if driver is in or out. It does matter tho if your trying to match someone else's set up
 
The only problem I see with trying to match someone else's setup, is can you match their driving style and line as well? I was taught to always make the setup changes with the driver in the kart, as raced, but I am an adult and scale my own chassis, I'm not familiar with working with JR drivers alot so I can see what you guys mean when it comes to real small kids. The only JRs I have worked with are a couple that I help out when they need it, so I do it like with my own and put them in the kart. I do mostly everything on my own and dont have a pit crew with me when I'm at the track, I have one person that comes with me and helps.
 
It's just common sense. For instance. If you scale your kart, driver in and he's not wearing a helmet. He goes out and now you feel kart needs more cross. So you comeback put kart on scales. Now you add cross and go out again. Kart is fast as can be. When you come back to your pits you put kart back onto scales. You take notes write all numbers down. Do you do this with Helmet on or off?? You can do both. But write down numbers with and w/out. I Scale all my customers with no helmets on. Yes when you put a helmet on you will loose nose weight. But your making changes to a kart consistent. Make sense? Some people just don't get it.......
As to rear lead. You should square the kart set toe then more the rear axle. You should also under stand the difference between settings the rf toe out vs lf toe out.
 
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