The search for more forward bite.

I would be getting the nose % up for sure at least to 46% unless you are running really high hp, like 2 stroke or a bike/quad engine setup where you can make the kart turn by how you work the throttle. Just my 2 cents
 
Says in the OP he was running a Jawa. You would have to assume he is running serious power. Its easy to light the tires off the turn or anywhere in the turn.
 
He is not running a Jawa any longer, just says an open kart engine this time.

With a big horse power kart a lot of nose weight isn't required due to the transfer of so much weight. Just getting it up to 44 is a struggle for some. So as long as the kart is good turning in and not floating the front like several big fours I have run against. Mine tends to float the front too occasionally, 44 nose isn't terrible. Too much nose and you're fighting to get it to transfer back coming off fast enough to ever hook a big engine up off the corner. Plus over loading the front going in.

So 44 if the kart isn't pushing coming off or going in I'd try it and maybe change it later. If the kart won't turn at the apex is a whole different ball game.

Al, widening the rear track on a LTO chassis is usually done at the lr, and most chassis have a window where they operate best. 38-1/2 to 39-1/2 is a huge difference. 1/8 to 1/4 adjustments are usually made and that isn't on a whim. Usually 39 will get you close, and adjust up or down to fine tune in 1/8 to 1/4 increments. As it changes how and when weight is transferred.
PS, I agree with Racing Promotor, add stagger before adjusting track width unless you know you're not transferring weight properly and can feel it not coming off the LR enough. Some people know what it should feel like, some don't.

With the numbers the Op listed on the revised setup should get the kart close without knowing much else. It's a better starting spot I feel than the original numbers by far. Not exactly sure about the dirt in that location but, I'm in the south and we run entirely different dirt! So those numbers could leave the kart loose and fighting for traction period if he is on worm dirt. Now, camber and castor play a large roll in how the kart performs at the entrance and out of the apex. If you're struggling with the numbers you listed, start looking at castor and camber settings.
 
Shane Smith loaned us the JAWA for the west coast shoot, we now are running a 143 CC Vortex built by Mike Collins at CRE . Its as stout a 2 stroke as I've ever driven. We finished second with it on the maiden voyage this weekend .
 
You pretty much nailed it ABR , we picked up a bit of a push at apex and are looking at the camber for the next race.
 
Yes, left front is in as far as it will go. We added cross to try and free it up at the track with no success. It raised the left rear temp and the push got worse as the run progressed. Front camber is what we will try next outing. This was determined by reading the tire temps. We will also add nose weight over the rf. I hate to move the lr out as we need all the forward bite we can get. As Joe said, The kart is close but we need to get faster.

Thanks for all the suggestions. So far they have been pretty helpful.
 
About how much cross do you have, and what is your track width?

All the drive you can get off the corner will NEVER make up for what you lose in the corner with a tight kart that won't turn.
 
I have had success adding lf camber to help a kart cut better on exit. When it worked, the kart wasn't bad, it just needed a little more improvement. I will also add this was on an akra clone.
 
From my little experience when im slow coming out its normaly a lock down my right rear doing to much ... How many RPM's are you droping threw the turn ?? Not a bad thing to keep track of...
 
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