timing

Did you think I wasn't aware of that?? I asked a question, you start singing to the choir.

No, I don't think you are aware of anything that you post. Your main objective is to give out mostly bogus suggestions and try to make the people on this forum think you actually know something about engines. So far you have failed.........
 
No, but you can plate the top of the cylinder and re-sleeve it to accommodate the added length. This is one of those occasions that I mentioned that you have no knowledge about on an other post.......

100% custom Havoc dome piston with pin height moved up, flathead crank, #6240 ARC stroker rod combo,welded/supported and braced animal block and tunnel ported head
 
100% custom Havoc dome piston with pin height moved up, flathead crank, #6240 ARC stroker rod combo,welded/supported and braced animal block and tunnel ported head
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is a "stroker rod"?
 
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is a "stroker rod"?

You could just Google the part number given, instead of needing spoon fed.
Of course, you need to truly want to know. I think you've been given that info already, maybe even in this thread.
 
Are you running 3 rings?

2 ring wiseco design. Check out www.havocpistons.com, my piston is the animal stroker piston on their main page, but with the pin height moved up more and more dome to begin with, which I have ended up shaving the dome down some for piston to valve clearance rather than cut valve reliefs. These have been the best pistons I have used, and that was after using Wiseco and JE pistons in the past
 
Al, the stroker rod is a longer rod than what comes in the engine, and longer than the typical long rods for these engines. To compensate for the longer rod, we use a piston that has the wrist pin height moved up closer to the top. My piston sits at .010" pop up, plus the dome on top of that. It is made to completely fill the combustion chamber on my head, for maximum compression. I am somewhere between 12.5 and 13:1 compression. I know I know, that is a guess not an exact number for you, sorry but my math sucks when figuring exact compression ratio and no I do not know the cc's in the animal head.
 
I ended up borrowing a timing light for this, and after using it, I went and bought myself a new timing light for future use. The timing light to me is much quicker and easier than the degree wheel, and I feel like it is just as accurate if not more accurate. You simply mark the flywheel, start the engine and point the light at your mark, and it gives you the exact point the timing is firing. To me, that's all I need, others may prefer to degree it and double check with the light, or vice versa, which works well either way in my opinion, no wrong way to go about it, just whatever works for you
 
2 ring wiseco design. Check out www.havocpistons.com, my piston is the animal stroker piston on their main page, but with the pin height moved up more and more dome to begin with, which I have ended up shaving the dome down some for piston to valve clearance rather than cut valve reliefs. These have been the best pistons I have used, and that was after using Wiseco and JE pistons in the past

http://www.havocpistons.com/ Mine is the R-921 piston on this page, just click it and scroll down. Same exact piston, except my wrist pin height is taller to make up for the block being decked a good bit. These pistons are just like Jimbo's domed animal pistons but slightly different. 2.776 bore, short skirt 2 ring piston
 
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