Track Tac

Tubing Scrape

sundog

sundog

Member
Has anyone ever come up with a good repair for the under side of the frame where it gets worn out from jumping curbs? Not talking about prevention.
 
I know you run sprint sundog, usually this means it's time for a new chassis.
If you do patch, I would use about a 1/3rd(120*) wrap of next size up tubing. Doubly important, taper the ends down so it looks like a long canoe before you weld it on, so it doesn't create a new stress point in the frame where the re-enforcement ends.
The welding heat is going to mess up the frame, it should be really baked afterwards to stress relieve it, which would mean gutting the kart to the frame....
 
It's not all the way through. I was thinking of just running some beads of weld then grinding it back to round.
 
That may work if your just talking about a couple small holes, but be sure to get all the paint cleaned down to bare metal before welding it to assure that it will stick to it. You might also think about using some sort of protective coating on the underside of the chassis to protect it from that happening again if you can do it in a way that doesn't prevent the chassis from flexing, something lies Rhino Liner or other spray on stuff like they use for trucks as the spray in bedliners, you can put just a couple thin coats on possibly rather than a few thick coats like they do with truck beds. I have used the stuff before to spray across the front nose of the body to protect it and it looked nice and held up real well, kept the nose from busting as easy but would cause me to wheelhop the kart in front of me if I wasn't real careful so I stopped using it.
 
jack burroughs said:
They do make testers for checking wall thickness.
Click to expand...
I've used one of those Jack, just a little bigger than a jewelers loop.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
what about creating a skid plate that loops over to the top of the frame rail and bolt it on or pop rivet it...this way you can protect it and don't have to worry about heat stressing the frame...by having the attachment points on the top, it woudl or should make it easy to remove, make a new one and reaplce the worn one...just off the wall thinking!
 
What I have done in the past was to clean the spots good, Tig weld using silicon-bronze filler rod. This takes low heat and wicks in nice. Take a file and smooth down and paint if you'd like. The low heat won't affect the tubing.
 
Here what I did:

Turned the kart over and cleaned up the area to include a half inch or so at the ends

Mixed up some JB Weld and filled in the affected area. I was able to fill in the spot and create a little crown and taper at both ends. I applied the weld with one of those small spackle looking things used to smooth out vinyl graphics.

Note:
The worn area was not that bad but I didn’t want it to get any worse! I check the area every race or two and the repair is holding up well. I’ll let it chew on it until the crown is gone then I plan on touching it up again—don’t know if it will help with curb hopping :p

I thought about welding it—but with my luck, I would l blow thru it or draw the rail up like a wicker basket.

JMO
 
harrym said:
What I have done in the past was to clean the spots good, Tig weld using silicon-bronze filler rod. This takes low heat and wicks in nice. Take a file and smooth down and paint if you'd like. The low heat won't affect the tubing.
Click to expand...
This is the best least intrusive method.
oxy/ acetylene torch could be used if you were adapt at brazing.
post weld heat would keep it from becoming brittle or hard.
 
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