Ultramax is loose in center of corners

FK Mtrsprts said:
Moving the left front in will help tighten it up, good move. Also the suggestion to increase the front stagger is a good one. That will help increase cross for you, these old umax's were good around 54% if it is indeed a proforce or centerforce, which if there is no camber adjustment then that will be what it is. I wouldn't go over 1 3/4 front stagger and would probably shoot for 1 5/8 as a target, that should get your cross close and help tighten her up. Hope this helps, good luck!

PS, if there is a pill adjustement it would be pressed into the spindle itself. It should look like and oval washer.
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Eddie is right. The pills should be on top at least. Bottom as well. They will be stamped with a 0, +.25,+.5.... Etc in .25 increments. They will go in only one way to adjust the camber.

If it has the tubes in the front of the kart with an Allen head set screw in the tubes (castor adjustments) the it is a proforce. And also to add to eddies other post check the master cylinder mount the date and year will be stamped. 00 210 as an example. That'll tell more about the kart and set up numbers.....
 
FK Mtrsprts said:
Ultramax went to 1 1/4" in the middle of 1998. They made 2, one cheaper that they called an ST model that was Mig weld and the standard model that was Tig weld (and had adjustable nerf bars and all the stars laser cut into the frame :))

In 1999 they made some changes and called it the centerforce.


2000 made more changes to the centerforce and also came out with the proforce with caster adjustment in the front.
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Yeah my good friend WKA National Champ Brian McKinney rode for Umax in 99, well aware of the Dill history
 
I am not 100% sure what it is. The friend we borrowed it from said it was an Ultramax. It is yellow if that helps, but it looks like it has been painted. My sons is a 97 Ultramax according to the date on the master cylinder mount, and it has the stars cut into it, my daughters looks different. The braces that hold the top of the steering column are 2 round tubes instead of the larger part my sons kart has. Both karts look about the same in general design and the way the rear axle mounts, except for the stars. Also, her nerf bars are different. Without the kart in front of me they are smaller in diameter and 2 piece design. There are no pills in the front end and the only adjustments are moving the washers and adjusting the toe with the steering links.
I did talk on the phone with a member on here a few months ago and he was able to help get it a lot closer to drivable with his advice, but for the life of me I have not been able to get it tightened up to where a rookie can keep it running straight. After this weeks race that kart will go home. She has enjoyed it enough that I will start shopping for a cheap kart for her to get a real start in next season.
And thanks to all of the help I have found on here and some good phone conversations with a few forum members by son is running in the top 3 this season, with an average finish of second place on his old Ultramax.
 
XXX#40 said:
How is a bunch of numbers that we dont use going to help a new person?
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Those numbers, except the last two, are numbers everybody uses every time they get on the scales!. Maybe you didn't recognize them because they are formatted differently.

Those last two numbers may be something that could help you. After all, there just numbers, what's the problem. I think it would be beneficial to keep your mind open to new things.
 
Yes I will text a picture of the chassis as soon as I get back out to the shop.
I was not able to get her on the scale last night. By the time she got home from volleyball practice it was getting late and she had a pile of homework to do. School work comes first, so we never made it out to the shop but I think I have it so it will handle better. Here is what I did.
I moved the 10 pound weight from the left side of the seat to the right side of the kart in front of center. I added 10 pounds to the nose on the right side. I ended up moving the left front wheel in 1/2 inch closer to the frame. I found out the right front spindle bolt had worked loose, so there was movement in the wheel. It was moving up and down about a half of an inch, so any camber was shifting whenever she turned.
If she gets home from school soon enough we will scale it quick to see where we are at before heading to the track. I guess it will either work or it wont!
 
Well, the adjustments worked great for my daughter! She had her best night yet...... for a few minutes. She was still just a little loose, but she was able to handle the kart. Most of her problem was too much steering input.
In her heat race she came in last place, but did not get lapped so she did great! Then during the second lap of the feature race her engine went to pieces. Oil and pieces of metal went flying and she has a large hole in her block. This engine only had 4 nights racing on it!
I also found out from a member on here that her kart is NOT an Ultramax like I thought. The season is over now, so we have until next spring to get her a kart of her own.
 
alvin l nunley said:
Those numbers, except the last two, are numbers everybody uses every time they get on the scales!. Maybe you didn't recognize them because they are formatted differently.

Those last two numbers may be something that could help you. After all, there just numbers, what's the problem. I think it would be beneficial to keep your mind open to new things.
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We dont use each wheel %, and we dont care about each wheel weight we work with %'s for Front, Left side, and cross.

I'd talk about having an open mind, your good at giving advise about something youve never done but wont accept advise from guys that have been oval racing their entire lives
 
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