Was wondering if anyone is checking new valves for runout? I was having issues where even though seat concentricity was good when I would drop in a valve with stem and guide dry it would not bounce on the seat like usual. rechecked the seat, lapped and still no bounce. Now for many years of doing this on automotive and motorcycle valves when seat is concentric and valve is good it will usually bounce off the seat unless the guide is too tight and the valve falls in slow. I bit the bullet and bought a valve face runout gauge that reads in ten thousandths. What I found was the stock Chinese valves from the take out harbor freight motors were all under .001 from .0005 to almost .001. The aftermarket valves were all over some over .003 runout others almost 0. I had two identical valves one with .0007 runout and another with .0032. These were 32mm valves and when I did the bounce test the .0032 did not bounce. When I do a vacuum test I do not do it from the port but pull vacuum from the chamber using a thick acrylic plate with a rubber gasket open around the chamber so I can add alcohol to see leaks, I use stock springs and even though the .0032 valve seals it does leak a small bit in one spot on the valve. I was just wondering if anyone else has seen this with aftermarket valves?