What clutch for a jackshaft?

what engine? i got 2 reapers for sale on here that are set up for yamaha or 100cc that work great i moved up to a bigger motor so had to get a bigger clutch
 
i will have a complete birky set up for sale when i get it back jackshaft w/new bearings shims lock collers 7 new belts 24 sprokets clutch oil gear chart extra pressure plate floaters discs seals springs 20t engine sprocket everything you will need $650.00 shipped
 
100cc stock or mild open use bully 3 disc jackshaft clutch, use bully turbo 4 disc for 116cc+ opens, tomar 4 disc 116cc+ opens assuming they are still made, birky is a good piece as well though its an oil clutch and all the others are dry disc clutches like on the stocker classes except they have steel drums and different springs and levers .........any buller dealer or tomar dealer can get you the dry jackshaft clutches and Birkys can be bought directly threw keven Birky or used ones pop up on here as well......Birky has models for different applications ie 100cc stock or full blown opens ....martinbuilt knows plenty about jackshaft clutches and may have real good used ones or even built 1 of his lines of clutches for your application........new bullys run in the 3-4 hundred range same w/ tomars if they are still made.......birkys are close to twice as much........pick your poision.........I ran both bullys and tomars and liked the bully turbo the best
 
I've got a Birky that I run on my KT that has 182 main events on it now with the same frictions, steels and springs (had to replace the orings once during that time)....I've never seen any dry clutch get even close to that number of races on it without being rebuilt many times over. The initial cost may be a little bit more but you will more than make up for it in rebuild costs!
 
my birky has been on a 100cc 125cc 135cc 150cc never replaced any parts will if you want dry then buy a bully turbo all you will buy for a birky is oil !!!!
 
Birky all the way!! Initial price to pay is well worth it. 3 full seasons on it. Tore it apart to check it, looks like new still. I spent 700 bucks burning 3 and 4 disc clutches up in two seasons. That was just rebuilds from a reputable builder.
 
My opinion is run the Bully. I run a specific setup that Kermit mentioned. It greatly improved the ability to get the engine on the pipe on the starts. I've run Bully clutches for years. I will typically adjust the air gap 1 or 2 times a year. I have never "burned up" a clutch in more than 12 years of using them.
Mike
 
What's the secret to using them Mike?? Seriously....we used to spend a bloody fortune keeping them together. Ran a brand new one 1 night, came off track, entire clutch looked like a fireball after 20 laps. Every fiber plate exploded.
 
Turbo has been hit or miss for me. I did find running rock star discs from George Bark helped with wear. Have had better luck with the old 3disc besides the pressure plate bolts backing out sometimes. Easy of setup is choice with me on bully, spring heights, springs and bolts setup is right on there site. That being said Tomar 4disc ran real well for me at the Fall invetational. Jmo
 
Some like black girls some like fat girls some like men.i havent had anyluck with dry disc guess im not as good as grady.its the same ole warp disc glazed over sparks flying wore out bushings.yes birkys break belt and leak fluid.i learned to deal with the demons everynow and again.im not on the professional level as some people but i enjoy the sport good luck mate
 
Going dry clutch is going to be a crap shoot as they all have many of the same issues dealing with heat and that is where the Birky beats them every time on restarts. We had issues with the Bully's years ago using the stuff hubs if I remember right. We snapped 3 in one show with an old 144cc Dap T62. We did have some good luck with the Tomar 4 disk that Laukaitis was selling for the j/s as the 4 disk Tomar was selling only had friction on one side of the outside two disk. Mike Curry special ordered different parts and put them together at the shop if I remember right, it was several years ago. Mike will correct me if I am wrong.
 
Bully setup 10,500 rmp engagement. (21/57 belt side) 6spring.... Purple springs .220 spring heights, straight levers (bolt in every other lever). 30-50tho air gap.
 
Key to my experience with Bully clutches is appropriately 10000 rpms of engagement and gearing enough to keep the clutch locked up. I also do not stab the gas every 2 seconds to clear out the engine. You can't just hold it steady right at a point between lock up and slip. I roll the fuel on and allow it to drive for about 5 secs and then allow it to roll. It being able to roll is a key aspect. That is more about the kart. On the back straight, just before you take the green is when I start worrying about getting the engine cleared out and prepping for a start. New Bully levers make this easier.

I'd like to add, my experience has been helped by breaking the clutch in prior to racing it as instructed by KB and following his advice.
Mike
 
will_ivy said:
What or who can I get a clutch for my jackshaft on a 2 cycle?
Click to expand...
I haven't seen anything mentioned about what engine you have, (piston port, Reed valve, Rotary valve) or what pipe you're running. Has the engine been ported? How high is the exhaust port? In degrees? Have you made a decision on what clutch you will be using? Will it be an engine, Jack shaft or axle clutch?
Or maybe I asked too many questions!
Comments compliments criticisms or questions always welcome.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top