I have a stock rod that came out of a hemi. And one that came out of a reg predator the one that came out of regular engine has rtc-01 on it and slightly darker color aluminium.the hemisphere looks like a regular clone rod. A2 on it and the KY insignia all clones have. Which one is stronger
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Which preditor rod is stronger
- Thread starter fasttommy
- Start date
jsstump#70
Member
There is no way to know. What I mean is, rod "A" may typically be stronger than rod "B". however with the HUGE variances in materials and workmanship coming from China, the one rod "A" you have may be substantially weaker than the one rod "B" you have. Pick the one that first, measures the best (journal roundness) and second, that "looks" the best. Free of scaling, pitting, stress risers etc... I doubt very seriously that extensive stress testing has been done on the two rods you mentioned. In most every case that the rules allow and rod strength is of concern, a billet ARC is used. Which ever one you choose, just be sure to clearance it correctly and torque it to specs. Not way over, not under. This just distorts the big end if you tighten it down a "little extra".
I know that "polishing" a cast iron rod is normal in rebuilt automotive engines but I've not seen it mentioned on here about stock clone rods. Has anyone had experience with any cast clone rod in something other than stock form? Will grinding and polishing help stress relieve the rod and help keep it from cracking at +6000rpm? Just a thought. And why is the ARC predator rod more expensive than any of the clone replacemts?
It's made from solid billet and has a white metal bearing insert. If you are running a stock motor then if your rod clearance is correct you will be ok, anything more than that fork out the money and buy one.
In answer to your question no it would do nothing the reason cast rods where linished was because that's where the cask join was giving is a weakness due to the shape as they are usually I beam rods
In answer to your question no it would do nothing the reason cast rods where linished was because that's where the cask join was giving is a weakness due to the shape as they are usually I beam rods
I have used the heavy duty rod on a clone with success, went ten races, no problem. Had one that showed inclusions, I polished them out, ran two races and they reappeared. Threw that one away. Yes, I polish 'em. If I could bead blast I would try that too. Use a 320 grit dingleberry hone and get a nice crosshatch, don't be afraid of setting them loose, 0.003" or 0.004". The stock bearing can take a beating but galds easily.
I have used the heavy duty rod on a clone with success, went ten races, no problem. Had one that showed inclusions, I polished them out, ran two races and they reappeared. Threw that one away. Yes, I polish 'em. If I could bead blast I would try that too. Use a 320 grit dingleberry hone and get a nice crosshatch, don't be afraid of setting them loose, 0.003" or 0.004". The stock bearing can take a beating but galds easily.
You can shot peen these rods like you would with some car engine rods but I doubt that's going to be any improvement with a stock rod since they will still be the same weak Chinese aluminum as before, which is very porous compared to the material most other rods are made or, or compared to billet