World formula billet rod...

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Anyone have an experiences with these rods...picked up a nice used stocker motor that's got one in it...Briggs says good to 7100 rpm...Thx! DR
 
I still have a couple of WF's from when our area had a nice sized class of Junior sprint racers using them. It utilizes the PVL 7100 rev limiter and was a good rule package with decent motor maintenance. The billet rod is strong with the down fall IMO is the lack of having bearing inserts.
 
For a stocker they're alright through one build cycle, then you'll replace it. Also make sure that the crank is ultra-polished before using. There's no way I'd use the WF rod in anything modified at all. As Freeze said, no bearings are a deal breaker for me.

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
For a stocker they're alright through one build cycle, then you'll replace it. Also make sure that the crank is ultra-polished before using. There's no way I'd use the WF rod in anything modified at all. As Freeze said, no bearings are a deal breaker for me.

-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
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Got an ARC on order...thx! dr
 
Ran the motor this past weekend with the wf rod in it, no issues what so ever, pulled side cover off, rod bolts still tight to torque specs, obviously didn't pull it off the crank to inspect crank rod journal...hoping all looks good there too...
 
Is there a chance that you got the rod cap backwards on the rod (ie the serrations weren't matched from the two halves) on the one you were having problems with rod bolts backing out? I realize that it's too late to make that determination now, but if simply changing the rod seems to have cured the problem, then it's obviously not crank flex or balance or etc....it has to point to the rod itself and it's installation.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Is there a chance that you got the rod cap backwards on the rod (ie the serrations weren't matched from the two halves) on the one you were having problems with rod bolts backing out? I realize that it's too late to make that determination now, but if simply changing the rod seems to have cured the problem, then it's obviously not crank flex or balance or etc....it has to point to the rod itself and it's installation.
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Check pm....thx! dr
 
My modified w f revved to 8553 at the end of the long front straight last time out. With a w f rod. I went 1 tooth smaller on the axle for next time. and will replace it when rebuilding.
 
Bad things can, and do, happen with both rods. After all, they are race engines being pushed to (and past) engineered limits.
The billet rod is stronger and the bearing inserts do a better job at ingesting foreign material, fuel, etc than the bare aluminum. Good argument to be made for "cushioning" with the bearing inserts as well. I'll take the 6249 "beefy" ARC rod over the Briggs WF rod for a modified application every time. In a WKA stock animal or World Formula, the WF rod may be durable enough, but the bearing inserts of a billet rod are still enough of an advantage for me to use the billet rods.
 
Well, I will admit the WF rod not having the bearing inserts makes me wonder a bit. But it is a strong rod. My boys have run Road Races for years (20+), since we started running the Animal I have used the WF rod exclusively. Now though, for the past few years we have used the STOCK ANIMAL ROD. Yes, the stock rod. RPM's at tracks like Mid Ohio sports car course are regularly in the 8000+ range. Need it there to get up-and-down the Hills. LET 'ER EAT !
 
DGE53 said:
Well, I will admit the WF rod not having the bearing inserts makes me wonder a bit. But it is a strong rod. My boys have run Road Races for years (20+), since we started running the Animal I have used the WF rod exclusively. Now though, for the past few years we have used the STOCK ANIMAL ROD. Yes, the stock rod. RPM's at tracks like Mid Ohio sports car course are regularly in the 8000+ range. Need it there to get up-and-down the Hills. LET 'ER EAT !
Click to expand...
Wanna buy a bunch of stock animal rods (cheap)? ;)


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
35 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
DGE53 said:
Well, I will admit the WF rod not having the bearing inserts makes me wonder a bit. But it is a strong rod. My boys have run Road Races for years (20+), since we started running the Animal I have used the WF rod exclusively. Now though, for the past few years we have used the STOCK ANIMAL ROD. Yes, the stock rod. RPM's at tracks like Mid Ohio sports car course are regularly in the 8000+ range. Need it there to get up-and-down the Hills. LET 'ER EAT !
Click to expand...
I run dirt ovals, where the rpms go up and down almost every lap/every corner, I know zero about road racing, but I suspect maybe the rpm drops as you twist and turn aren't as big?
 
I have used the WF rod for years on stock class motors. To my recollection I had only one failure, many years ago. There were some made, years ago that were .0003 or so out of round. Right or wrong I blame that for the failure. I put a light crosshatch on the surface and clearance .0025 to . .0028. I have been inside other peoples plate motors that used the stock rod without a problem. I would not have the courage to turn a stock rod to 8,000. The ARC rod has a slightly different offset and will retard TDC 1/2 degree.
 
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