2013 slack set up issues

F

FinishLine

Member
Been struggling really bad this year ever since I switched from the Briggs flathead, to the clone motor.
It's been BAD loose, on corner entry. I've tried everything from increasing cross%, decreasing stagger( front and back), rear track width, air pressures. The air pressure, if I run really low (6 psi on right, 5 on lefts) helps a bit, but I seem to get wheel hop.
I'm a really big guy, crossing scales at 430lbs, so I'm already at a disadvantage, so these set up issues are really magnified.
I flipped at the end of last year (really BAD), bent my axle, and motor plate,, replaced those parts, but could my frame be bent I wonder?
Didn't expect to struggle this much with the clone this year. What I'm thinking of doing is laying my seat back to take some weight off my nose, and hoping to roll it into the corners better without losing my ass end so easily.
Is it common to experience this much difference between flat head and clone motors?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, I'm all ears guys.
 
JPMKarting said:
What numbers do you have in the kart?

Impossible to give you a direction to go until we know where you are at
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Low cross you see is what I ran with the flathead, and worked good.
These numbers are what I scaled last year too.
 

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Just an FYI, but I did increase my cross weight% a couple weeks ago, to 57%, but didn't notice a difference.
 

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Dougherty#39 said:
When we ran the axiom our numbers were closer to.

46.5 47 nose
62-64 cross
58.5-60 left
Caster 10/12
That was at 405lbs with a 6'3" driver weighing 205
I don't think we ever got higher than -2 3/4 on the RF outdoors with it. We went to starting at 0 in LF. The kart always turned in well.
Click to expand...
Is this with a clone motor?
And what type of track,
We run on mostly dry slick, and we have an afternoon race coming up, so it's gonna be super dry slick lol
 
FinishLine said:
Is this with a clone motor?
And what type of track,
We run on mostly dry slick, and we have an afternoon race coming up, so it's gonna be super dry slick lol
Click to expand...
I’d be putting the numbers posted above in it to start. You can always take cross out at the track, simple and easy to do.
If 5/6 is really low what do you normally run ?
There‘s a big difference between a Clone & Flathead, I’ve seen numerous guys struggle going from a FH to a Clone.
 
Typically, I've ran 6-7 psi on lefts, to 8-10 psi on rights, with even going as high as 12 psi on RR to combat a little "tight off" condition. But that was with the Flathead, where it was much more stable. Now...I'm all over the place. Not stable at all.
For cross weight, my RF spindle has just a couple washers on the bottom. So no more adjustment there. I could change some washers on LF to increase more %, but I could also achieve more cross by lowering the LR correct?
 
5/6 is high for us, we’re usually 3/4 or 4/5.
On the cross, I’d put all the washers on top of the RF & bottom of the LF just to see how high it can go.
Are your scale numbers with all your gear on ?
 
Kj26 said:
5/6 is high for us, we’re usually 3/4 or 4/5.
On the cross, I’d put all the washers on top of the RF & bottom of the LF just to see how high it can go.
Are your scale numbers with all your gear on ?
Click to expand...
Yes, all gear on.
Will give that a try.
And any thoughts on LR adjustment in regards to cross, if need be?
 
Kj26 said:
If your talking moving the entire cassette, no don’t do that. On the older karts with adjustable cassettes you could, but yours aren’t built like that.
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I belive he's talking about flipping the pill in the LR. You can use that to add cross yes. You could also order high cross spindles from PMI.
 
Kj26 said:
If your talking moving the entire cassette, no don’t do that. On the older karts with adjustable cassettes you could, but yours aren’t built like that.
Click to expand...
I have the triangular pills in the cassettes that I can move the LR up or down.
 
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