Briggs and stratton world formula engine won't start

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Karthelp

Member
Hello all, I am total newbie when it comes to owner driver karts and really need some advice on how to fix my engine. I had the engine running fine at the start of November 2022 but since then the kart has been sat in my metal storage container. I've gone to start it up again now in Feb 2023 and it simple won't start, I know the engine works as it was running just fine before but can anyone advise me on what might be stopping it starting now when it hasn't been in use and has just been sat in storage. Any advice is gratefully appreciated.
 
remove the jets and be sure they are free from obstruction but avoid using a drill bit or ramming something sharp down them as their accuracy is important.
 
Karthelp said:
Brilliant thanks replying I'll give that ago! Just to confirm do I need to remove the fuel from the fuel tank as well?
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yes! pump gas with ethanol will gel within weeks and carb jets are measured in thousandths . drain the carb fuel bowl EVERY RACE WEEKEND
i even spray a little carb cleaner up there as well
 
J'-remy said:
remove the jets and be sure they are free from obstruction but avoid using a drill bit or ramming something sharp down them as their accuracy is important.
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Thank you some really useful advice, just wondering what you usually use to do this
 
Is it on gas or methanol? Methanol is way more corrosive and needs to be flushed at the end of the night/day by running gas/oil or gas/marvel mystery oil mix for 30-45 seconds or until the tone changes. Not only does it mess with the carb it will also ruin the cylinder finish.
 
draining the old fuel and adding fresh may do the trick. if not, spray it with carb cleaner. Soak it if spraying doesn't dissolve what's there. blow through it with compressed air should be fine (if needed). just don't shoot the jet across the room. I tend to sight them towards a light source to see if they are free and clear. i don't like poking them with metal unless it's the only way to clear an obstruction.
make sure your slide is going up and down. you don't want to start it and it be stuck WFO.
plenty of youtube videos if you're not familiar with this type of carburetor.
good luck and ask away
 
J'-remy said:
draining the old fuel and adding fresh may do the trick. if not, spray it with carb cleaner. Soak it if spraying doesn't dissolve what's there. blow through it with compressed air should be fine (if needed). just don't shoot the jet across the room. I tend to sight them towards a light source to see if they are free and clear. i don't like poking them with metal unless it's the only way to clear an obstruction.
make sure your slide is going up and down. you don't want to start it and it be stuck WFO.
plenty of youtube videos if you're not familiar with this type of carburetor.
good luck and ask awa
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Thank you I did all this and the engine is working again! Only problem I'm having now is its starting and going straight to max revs do you know what's causing this please?
 
Might double check the O-ring between carb and insulator is still present. Its usually the slide is open just a little. It doesnt take much to make it sound like it's wide open. You can have someone unhook the other end of the cable and watch to see if it goes down. The slide has a cut out on each side and its only designed to go one way, just something else to check. Needle clipped in still? I circle back to its usually the slide not all the way down. Or if you messed with the idle screw it may need adjusted. its on the flywheel side of the engine
 
racinnut15xm said:
Might double check the O-ring between carb and insulator is still present. Its usually the slide is open just a little. It doesnt take much to make it sound like it's wide open. You can have someone unhook the other end of the cable and watch to see if it goes down. The slide has a cut out on each side and its only designed to go one way, just something else to check. Needle clipped in still? I circle back to its usually the slide not all the way down. Or if you messed with the idle screw it may need adjusted. its on the flywheel side of the engine
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Thanks for the advice, when I take the air filter off and look into the carb is there meant to be any gab at all under the slide or is it meant to be all the way down pressed against the metal?
 
so It turns out I had the slide the wrong way round (silly mistake but I'm very new to this with no mechanical background) I corrected that this morning and you can now see from the picture the slide is down in the carb like it's meant to be. Problem I'm having now is its still rotating the the wheels when it's idling I've tried adjust the idle screw but It either keeps turning or the engine cuts out. Does anyone know what step I should take next to try and fix this?
 

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If your engine is idled down as far as it can go without cutting off, and you can’t hold the rear wheels and keep them from spinning, your clutch bushing maybe seizing/needs oil, or you clutch stall speed is set to low.
 
Hobbs said:
If your engine is idled down as far as it can go without cutting off, and you can’t hold the rear wheels and keep them from spinning, your clutch bushing maybe seizing/needs oil, or you clutch stall speed is set to low.
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If I put my hand on the wheel the spinning stops so does that mean when the kart is on the ground with the weight of the kart pressing down on it will it not spin?
 
Yes. Always have one person in the kart holding the brake and one person starting the engine if possible to be on the safe side. That way the kart don’t accidentally run away from you.
 
Could also be that the throttle cable is too tight, not allowing the slide to be lowered beyond a certain point.
 
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