Clone oil

we change oil every race and no disrespect but I have to think there is no way some guy building an oil in his back yard knows how to build a better oil than... SHELL ... and I have to think an oil designed for the loads of a diesel engine with clearances set to last 500k miles... would have to be ok for a hot rodded tiller engine with loose clearances and oil changes less than every 100miles... just my thought
 
I think there might be room to change the additive package for racing considering it will likely be dumped out after an evening too.
The only guy that ever knows something like this for sure ( or thinks he knows ) is the one that tried everything on the track and kept records to indicate there really was a difference on both the track and dyno.

Lately in another forum I frequent there has been a discussion about adding ultra fine dry moly powder one time directly to the oil as a treatment after break in.
I don't know what to make of this..
But if one guy wins race who did it, everyone else will talk about for weeks.
 
I think there might be room to change the additive package for racing considering it will likely be dumped out after an evening too.
The only guy that ever knows something like this for sure ( or thinks he knows ) is the one that tried everything on the track and kept records to indicate there really was a difference on both the track and dyno.

Lately in another forum I frequent there has been a discussion about adding ultra fine dry moly powder one time directly to the oil as a treatment after break in.
I don't know what to make of this..
But if one guy wins race who did it, everyone else will talk about for weeks.

No reason to do this, go to NAPA and get a bottle of LubriMoly M0s2 additive. It is cheap and contains the good stuff made just for your oil! Works great in cars!
 
Modern oil does not require additives, change your oil regularly, use the proper quality and quantity, you do not need to add snake oil. If your vehicle is under waranty use caution and common sense.
 
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