Cutting weight off go kart

How can I take off weight from my go kart? I am trying to think of stuff to take off to cut weight or replace to cut weight but I am pretty new to karting and was wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Some things just are .
You can get as many light weight components as possible .
Then ligten them more .
Drill your sprockets and chain guard .
Magnisium wheels , titanium bolts .
Anything thats steel make aluminum .
How many are actually at 300 lbs ?
Its just a fact of life .
Race both classes light and heavy .
Tune ine the light class and run for the money in heavy .
 

JPMKarting

Premium User
Your average kart is 160 lbs without lead.

your kart shouldn’t be weighing 190 lbs
 

Kj26

Member
Like JP said, why does your kart weigh so much to begin with. Our heaviest kart is 157 with no lead. My daughter is 155# & goes over the scales at 310# with no lead. My son is 197# and is 356# with no lead.
 

GClary

Member
Not knowing what kart you have , I would say your body and seat are where your weight is needing lightened . Check the frame for places that a previous owner may have added weight into it and capped it off .
 

Fast 34

Member
Your chassis is old and undoubtedly heavy but it shouldn't be 35lbs heavier than the modern equivalent. To start, replace that giant rear bumper with a simple hoop, get a shorter axle that doesn't stick out 4 inches on both sides, shorten every bolt that has threads showing past the nut. If a PRC swoop body will fit, use it. They are thin, but generally 2-4lbs lighter than a high side non-PRC body. Lighter seat. Tires that are rolled heavy on the inside (4oz) and wiped aggressively on the outside also add considerable rotational weight.
 

Ted Hamilton

Design Drafter / Racer
Tires that are rolled heavy on the inside (4oz) and wiped aggressively on the outside also add considerable rotational weight.
Am I missing something here? They're only 4oz. more.... ;) You can use aluminum bolts in non-critical areas. There was a company called, no joke, "Tasty Nuts", that sold aluminum fasteners. Only suitable for things like driver fairings, etc., but every bit counts. Drilling out a seat changes its' flex characteristics, so beware of that. Considerable portions of the underside of the nose can be trimmed off (at the expense of dust and debris getting up into everything.) Brackets can be swiss cheesed, floor pan also. 'just consider forces on the part involved and be smart about it.
 

Fast 34

Member
Am I missing something here? They're only 4oz. more.... ;) You can use aluminum bolts in non-critical areas. There was a company called, no joke, "Tasty Nuts", that sold aluminum fasteners. Only suitable for things like driver fairings, etc., but every bit counts. Drilling out a seat changes its' flex characteristics, so beware of that. Considerable portions of the underside of the nose can be trimmed off (at the expense of dust and debris getting up into everything.) Brackets can be swiss cheesed, floor pan also. 'just consider forces on the part involved and be smart about it.
:) 4oz x 4 tires = 1lb added of rotational mass for a set not counting outside wipes during the week and at the track.
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
Getting rid of that huge brake rotor will save 5lbs by itself.
From the looks of that chassis, weight is the least of your problems
 
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