I may be far from a pro but I know better than to install something without a bearing that requires one js but I just can't seem to get my flywheel to stay even torqued to 100ft/lbs on a aluminum and a stock cast flywheel so guess I just gonna cut my own keys I'll look over motor again and check side to side play. Like I said I'm no pro but I have more problems out my motors with timing than anything
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Flywheel rubbing block
- Thread starter boomer216
- Start date
The key does not stop a flywheel from shifting position, it is an assembly positioning device. W5R do I have to explain how easy the side cover would go on and yes the seal would support the crank, it was on this forum the events were discussed. You have suggested Boomer grind off the offending boss, with your extensive experience you should know there is something wrong here with a potentially dangerous flywheel installation.
Boomer can you clearly photograph the crank taper and flywheel tapered bore and post the pictures. At 100 ft/lbs the flywheel should not move, that is bordering on cause damage to the flywheel, the cast ones split at the hubs with less torque.
Boomer can you clearly photograph the crank taper and flywheel tapered bore and post the pictures. At 100 ft/lbs the flywheel should not move, that is bordering on cause damage to the flywheel, the cast ones split at the hubs with less torque.
The key does not stop a flywheel from shifting position, it is an assembly positioning device. W5R do I have to explain how easy the side cover would go on and yes the seal would support the crank, it was on this forum the events were discussed. You have suggested Boomer grind off the offending boss, with your extensive experience you should know there is something wrong here with a potentially dangerous flywheel installation.
Boomer can you clearly photograph the crank taper and flywheel tapered bore and post the pictures. At 100 ft/lbs the flywheel should not move, that is bordering on cause damage to the flywheel, the cast ones split at the hubs with less torque.
I didnt say to grind off anything, how you got that i dont know. I suggested simply lightly grinding the spot where he needed clearance, if nothing else works or he cant find the problem
Who mentioned 'Common Sense'....is he here also? Kart43 has a point...as long as the engine is Not running, the seal will support the Crank and one would never know the bearing isn't in place unless they check for 'thrust'.
The seal will support it somewhat yes, but it will still move up and down if you try to move it....if you check the endplay you clearly notice something is wrong, right? This isnt the first engine he has built, but i can see what you and Kart43 are saying
Yea I believe it was just pushed over with the crank end play. I re assembled it all tonight and no rubbing guess it was just where it wasn't torqued down or something I'm not sure but have no issue out of it now. I also put a standard key in my arc flywheel with 32* advanced and checked with degree wheel and it had 36* advanced in it anyone seen things like that? Works for me that's what I needed anyways was just curious how common it was.
youngengines
Member
Yea I believe it was just pushed over with the crank end play. I re assembled it all tonight and no rubbing guess it was just where it wasn't torqued down or something I'm not sure but have no issue out of it now. I also put a standard key in my arc flywheel with 32* advanced and checked with degree wheel and it had 36* advanced in it anyone seen things like that? Works for me that's what I needed anyways was just curious how common it was.
I have had them be at 34 degrees with the newer flywheel... that just shows how the keyway can be off a fair amount.