Honda CR250R setup

Mr. Taft. Can you tell me whats in your "kits" that you build or cast? Thanks.

I make the parts to convert a MX engine over to a Kart engine. You can buy just the cases or a whole kit.

Cases 300.00
or complete kit, 850.00
The kit includes cases, jackshaft, waterpump, drivenhub and gear, belt driver, bearing barrel w 3/4 shaft and bearings installed. and the Pipe.
 
So if you get the kit really you wouldn't have to buy a whole bike just for the engine parts. You could prob get the bottom and top end parts and electrical stuff you need? Or would you still need a bike? I assume it would be way easier to dismantle a bike to build the kart. Tell us more about this rotory valve engine or case halves in the making. Whats so special about it?
 
Actually unless you get a real deal on a bike and can then sell the remaining parts to get your self in a almost zero cost status , I recommend buying new parts with the possible exception of a head and cylinder. You can buy a real good used cylinder for around 300.00. Brand new for 600.00. Heads used are in the 50.00 range and new billit heads for around 125.00. New crankshafts from hotrods 200.00. Bearings 60.00 w/ seals. Pistons 80.00 ignitions 150.00 - 250.00. From used motoplats to new PVLs .

All this will give you a more than competitive engine package. It'll still boil down to corner speed. But you won't be blaming your engine or its cost to own one.

Buying a used engine then having to buy a rod bearings seals piston gaskets ect. And taking a chance on the cylinder being good. Is a risk. Unless you can look see before buying.
 
The rotary valve engine is a throw back to the Komet K30. These engines use a rotary valve (disc) to open and close the intake port. They are brutally fast on the old 135cc engines. Carb mounts on the side of the engine fuel air is taken in directly into the transfer port. They should prove to be a wild ride on a 250 not that the reed engines aren't. Its my way of bringing the old time karting classics into the MX conversion theme.

I'm using my cylinder inducted case and matching it with a case inducted cylinder. This allows for the machining of a intake track directly into the outboard transfer port. I would say this will be a perfect combination for the older short stroke and newer long stroke KTM 250's. Honda in 02-04 and Suzuki from 89-95 also made case inducted versions.
 
Looks like that ESR yz325 kit would make a monster of a engine. Wonder what the durability and hp that thing could put out with there billet high compression head?
 
Actually unless you get a real deal on a bike and can then sell the remaining parts to get your self in a almost zero cost status , I recommend buying new parts with the possible exception of a head and cylinder. You can buy a real good used cylinder for around 300.00. Brand new for 600.00. Heads used are in the 50.00 range and new billit heads for around 125.00. New crankshafts from hotrods 200.00. Bearings 60.00 w/ seals. Pistons 80.00 ignitions 150.00 - 250.00. From used motoplats to new PVLs .

All this will give you a more than competitive engine package. It'll still boil down to corner speed. But you won't be blaming your engine or its cost to own one.

Buying a used engine then having to buy a rod bearings seals piston gaskets ect. And taking a chance on the cylinder being good. Is a risk. Unless you can look see before buying.

I know where you can get complete ignitions off of 3 Reedjets for $120 each.....
Mike
 
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