Box Stock

Honest hp numbers

I don’t know the name of the load cell. It is a fluid cell that travels to the gauge in the back ground. Housing is bolted down. No on performance trends. Everything is mechanical I video tape the run then play back the video and stop it where I need to or want to. I do my calculations on a calculator.
 
DynoDon said:
I don’t know the name of the load cell. It is a fluid cell that travels to the gauge in the back ground. Housing is bolted down. No on performance trends. Everything is mechanical I video tape the run then play back the video and stop it where I need to or want to. I do my calculations on a calculator.
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Sounds good Don 👍
 
DynoDon said:
I don’t know the name of the load cell. It is a fluid cell that travels to the gauge in the back ground. Housing is bolted down. No on performance trends. Everything is mechanical I video tape the run then play back the video and stop it where I need to or want to. I do my calculations on a calculator.
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Why not use my spreadsheet, it's perfect for your use.
Get a barometer and a temperature gauge and you can have corrected horsepower. The spreadsheet works in Apache OpenOffice, which is free on the web. It's free!!
alvinnunley62@gmail.com
 
I have a very expensive barometer, temperature gauge and humidity gauge. I don’t mind doing my calculations. Thank you
 
DynoDon said:
I fixed the picView attachment 8999
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This should be the most accurate way to a dyno figure since anything more or less than 1 to 1 would skew the numbers correct?? Every time i've seen cars / motorcycles on chassis Dyno's it's been stated many times that unless the transmission is in 4th or 5th or whatever is 1 to 1 from crankshaft to tailshaft the numbers will be off but then you still have a final drive ratio which distorts the output. I have seen many kart engines in videos on dyno's that had a final drive gear ratio like it was on a kart doing pulls so that would be the incorrect way... or at least the most inaccurate.
 
Just to be more confusing , waterbrake dynos with good electronics will be able to control the sweep rate of the motor. i don't remember how much of a difference it was between say, 200rpm a second and 600 rpm a second. I kept the sweep setting recorded so we could be consistent.
I've heard rumors that NHRA pro stockers have dyno rooms that can be set to any weather conditions they want.I've seen 10hp change on a SBC by not turning on the dyno room fans.
How many of you guys have O2 sensors and what kind of life are you getting?
 
RCJ said:
10hp change on a SBC by not turning on the dyno room fans.
How many of you guys have O2 sensors and what kind of life are you getting?
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I've had that very same experience, forgot to turn the fan on in my dyno room while testing a KT100. Big HP difference. My dyno room was a box off a U-Haul truck. I had a big barrel fan that blew air across the engine and pipe. Not perfect, but reasonably effective.
Never been a big fan of O2 sensors. Big fan of the EGT.
 
Nice setup don but I still like the inertia dyno I like being able to set the clutch we are running that weekend to the motor we are running (not the max torque it’s for every day comparison)we get to set it at several different rpm’s then our software tells us in seconds from engagement to full running rpm but everyone has their own way of setting their clutches and motors but I can tell you for certain that upgrading from the old 2.0 to the 4.2 performance trends has been one of my best moves of the season although we have not raced yet I’m confident it has been one of our smartest buys!!!! It tells me what I need to know without me trying to calculate or guess I think I’m gonna build a rear wheel dyno I can just sit my kart on and have a real time dyno and see the difference between the inertia and it looks like a project and add money to the economy !!
 
RCJ said:
1) i don't remember how much of a difference it was between say, 200rpm a second and 600 rpm a second.
2) How many of you guys have O2 sensors and what kind of life are you getting?
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RCJ,

1) Its important that the sweep rate is held as consistent as possible, unless you have software that can re adjust for the Inertia effects. We use the inertia software correction factor and can sweep from 50 RPM / Sec to 500 RPM / Sec and get within .05 HP everytime.
2) We have been using the same O2 sensor for at least 10 years now. The key to long life is don't fog your Methanol engine with pump gas. That will destroy the sensor within a few months. Only fog with solutions that are about the same in A/F ratio to Methanol........... using O2 sensor is the best and most accurate way for tuning a carburetor............IMHO.

Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
 
triton03 said:
Ty Steve that is why I have been going thru o2 sensors!!!
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Yea..we learned that the hard way also.

We use mineral spirits and marvel mystery oil for fogging........... 1 gallon of mineral spirits and 4 oz of marvel mystery oil mixed.........been using that for 10 years with no problems. THOR oil use to sell this carburetor flush in gallon cans...........you can try JC specialties, they might still sell

https://www.bmikarts.com/Thor-Oil-Carburetor-Flush--Gal_p_704.html
 
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steve baker said:
RCJ,

1) Its important that the sweep rate is held as consistent as possible, unless you have software that can re adjust for the Inertia effects. We use the inertia software correction factor and can sweep from 50 RPM / Sec to 500 RPM / Sec and get within .05 HP everytime.
2) We have been using the same O2 sensor for at least 10 years now. The key to long life is don't fog your Methanol engine with pump gas. That will destroy the sensor within a few months. Only fog with solutions that are about the same in A/F ratio to Methanol........... using O2 sensor is the best and most accurate way for tuning a carburetor............IMHO.

Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
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Is nitro rough on them? Anyone that has had to buy O2 sensors in the last couple years have any suggestions where to get them? You may of got a good one seeing as its 10yrs old i'm sure they have changed a bit since then.
 
racinnut15xm said:
Is nitro rough on them? Anyone that has had to buy O2 sensors in the last couple years have any suggestions where to get them? You may of got a good one seeing as its 10yrs old i'm sure they have changed a bit since then.
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We don't mess with Nitro!
We buy our O2 sensors at NAPA, BOSCH part number 17014. Made in USA! Amazon has them for $63.00...........
 
Renegade said:
I have sensors for Engine RPM, Wheel RPM (2 magnets), CHT, EGT, Mass Airflow Sensor, Intake air temp and a built in weather station for ambient air temp, Humidity and Barometer. I have found that you can tune the engines on a sunny day or a rainy day and get the same dyno results with the corrective software. But they will not perform the same on the track. An engine tuned on a rainy day will be great on a rainy day but will be down on power on a sunny day. It's not a lot of difference but when 10th's of a second count it can be significant.
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When you tune what are you changing?
 
Renegade said:
I have found that you can tune the engines on a sunny day or a rainy day and get the same dyno results with the corrective software. But they will not perform the same on the track. An engine tuned on a rainy day will be great on a rainy day but will be down on power on a sunny day.
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You don't get the "actual" same results on the dyno with changes in the air density, the software applies the correction factor and tells you what the HP "would" have been had the air density not changed. With proper tuning, all else being equal, the HP reads should be the same regardless of the air density. Within reason. Yes I and you are you the one is. You are you as you and… Once in a bottle and it does "what is the setting of all is you wills and yours will a long while will look at and you will worry you have a will of over really is to use it for
Unfortunately, when you're at the track, there's no correction factor involved. On high air density days you go fast, on low air density days you go slower. Fortunately, from your dyno experience, you know what changes to make to compensate for that change in air density at the track.
 
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