Honing a stock clone rod ??

T

TritonJrBluePlate

Member
Since Stock rods in Clones do not have a bearing and are basically just aluminum: it seems honing the rod would be problematic. The hone would eat that up I assume. Am I wrong?

Currently my gap between the crank journal and rod is only 0.001. I plan to polish the crank down to achieve 0.003.
 
If honing isn’t done correctly it will cause gaulding of the rod and the motor will lock up. Speaking from experience
 
I was told the honing provides a scratch pattern that allows better lubrication as the oil is in the valleys of the scratches. it needs to bee done correctly. it needs to be flat, round, and the correct size. too loose it will get beat to death to tight it will gaul.
 
When the stock (cast aluminum) Briggs flathead rods were required in IKF/WKA a lot of builders used a correct size 600 grit ball hone to lightly hone both ends of the rod using correct honing oil. I personally ran the hones forward and reverse a few strokes. This process was not used to size the rod but to provide a cross hatch pattern to aid oil retention. -- Chuck
 
Chuck_Sloggett said:
When the stock (cast aluminum) Briggs flathead rods were required in IKF/WKA a lot of builders used a correct size 600 grit ball hone to lightly hone both ends of the rod using correct honing oil. I personally ran the hones forward and reverse a few strokes. This process was not used to size the rod but to provide a cross hatch pattern to aid oil retention. -- Chuck
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I’ve got a 320 grit hone for the connecting rod. I was just looking at it and was concerned this grit would eat up aluminum. Maybe I’m wrong idk. I just wanted to ask. I may just call Jodi at ARC or Jerry at Dover.
 
With a ball hone or even stones. Three rods clamped together.
The Center one being the one too use . The other two are just guides.
 
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