Lead on 2004 phenom

G

garacing39

Member
Where should I have my castor blocks on my phenom when I got it rf was in back holes lf was in front I feel this is backward from where it should be but I could not get the lf in the back pins for some reason the hiem joint on top would not line up with the castor block on rear pins so i put both lf and rf on front pins any input would be great I run two tracks one is a 1/6th low bite track little banking run a 15/61 gear and other is a 1/5th good bite momentum track 17/63 gear I run clone heavy my setup numbers are rf castor 12 and camber 3 lf castor 8 and camber 3/8 46.3 front 56.5 left 64 cross
 
The LF only has one position for lead. And I like the block in the back hole on the RF. You'll want -2.75 rf camber and 63 cross for the 1/6 mile and -3.25 rf with 66 cross for the 1/5 mile. Of course with the 1/6 you'll want to scale and run 5 & 6 air and get your tires to grip. For the 1/5 mile I would scale my kart at 6 & 7 air that way when you first start off at 5 & 6 your camber and cross will start just a little lower. I also like 7 & 10 caster on the phenom.
 
No the block literally has two factory holes in the lf even the chassis has two marks for lining up the castor settings on top on my chassis I've always been told the same thing do I have a different edition of the phenom? Maybe a prototype?
 
Not to ask a dumb question but just to make sure everyone is on the same page so here goes anyway....LF as your sitting in the kart?
 
Look guys I understand what yal are saying that it's only got one but this phenom has two from the FACTORY the lf castor block has two sets of holes both have anodized coating still in the holes so the were not drilled the frame has two lines on top to line up each set of holes on castor block, the castor block part number is 1111135L2
 
Sorry, garacing39, but the Phenom has only one hole in the LF to pivot your caster block, there is no lead adjustment on the LF, only the RF. There should not be powder coat or anodizing in the holes because the face of the plates do not get powder coated.
 
I had a 04 Phenom and It only had one hole on lf caster and 2 on right. Also had several friends that had phenoms and were the same. Someone has added another hole. The spot on the frame where the caster blocks mount never came from the factory with anodized coating. That spot on the frame was always bare metal so the caster block itself would fit properly onto the frame.
 
Ok so I got a defect castor block from phantom that's cool but which line do I use on my chassis for setting castor front or rear it has two lines like the rf has both factory marks from or rear? And where should I have rf block front or rear.
 
Stock position on the RF is forward. What sounds to me happened with the LF caster plate is it was cut off and a plate with two holes was welded in it's place, then powder coated over. They did NOT come from factory with two holes on the LF for lead adjustment. Without knowing where the holes are, I'd run the LF back like we do on the Triton.
 
James the frame only has one position for pins but has two marks on top of plate like the rf but are a lot closer together the aluminum castor block has the two holes in it, it will go on the pins in both sets of holes but when it's in the back position the top hiem joint does not line up? Ive got both in front positions now and gonna try that next weekend do the rest of my setup numbers sound correct?
 
garacing39 said:
James the frame only has one position for pins but has two marks on top of plate like the rf but are a lot closer together the aluminum castor block has the two holes in it, it will go on the pins in both sets of holes but when it's in the back position the top hiem joint does not line up? Ive got both in front positions now and gonna try that next weekend do the rest of my setup numbers sound correct?
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Your numbers sound really good. However, if the track is biting up good like you say, I'd stack some left side on. Probably run around 57.5%.
 
Ok no need to argue. Gar your correct in saying the left side caster "BLOCK" does have 2 holes in it, one on top, one towards the bottom. The right side block looks the same.

What everyone is trying to say, once you take the block off the chassis, there is only one threaded hole for the pin to go on the left side and 2 threaded holes on the right side on the chassis itself to adjust for right side lead.

Now with that being said, sometimes we lead the RF indoor on syrup, outside we run it in the back hole, but I'm also not a dirt guy we run asphalt ovals.
 
My lf block has 4 holes two sets of holes but I believe we are passed that lol I have what I have even if it's accidental or 1 of a kind it doesn't matter was just curious to know why only the one set lines up but no worries I have all the gauges scales and tools to set it up was just odd that the holes are there and I cannot use them but hey I can't complain he kart is a good kart this is just the first time I've changed the lead on rf and saw lf had it too so was asking but I will let it roll and see where it is when the dirt settles thanks for all the input and help from everyone
 
garacing39 said:
My lf block has 4 holes two sets of holes but I believe we are passed that lol I have what I have even if it's accidental or 1 of a kind it doesn't matter was just curious to know why only the one set lines up but no worries I have all the gauges scales and tools to set it up was just odd that the holes are there and I cannot use them but hey I can't complain he kart is a good kart this is just the first time I've changed the lead on rf and saw lf had it too so was asking but I will let it roll and see where it is when the dirt settles thanks for all the input and help from everyone
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What I am reading is the castor "Block" has 2 sets of holes... But the castor "Plate" only has 1 set of holes.. Correct? That would make sense why the heim will only line up in the back set of holes. Do you have both pins in the castor block and plate to lock the castor in at the factory position? If so just notice what lines are matched up and then you have your reference for 8* or 10* or whatever degree castor block you have on there. That all made sense in my head, hope it came out and made some sense. Also, on the block is it stamped or engraved as a LF and what * does it say it is? Almost sounds like a RF block...
 
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