Box Stock

pull cord yank

foreverfaster

foreverfaster

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been covered before but can't find what i'm looking for.
pulled over like a charm when i first put it together. now it wants to yank my arm out of socket or lock up. i'm in the process of tearing down the motor now

Heres what i have, and things ive checked.
hemi, long rod, short piston (ARC) with briggs ignition and ARC. 6600PH flywheel. key'd
CL -1 cam, 22# spring. stock length rockers.. thin head gasket. .04
rockers to valves are at 0 or almost 0, can still turn the push rod with my fingers. checked with the opposite valve full open.
flywheel is tight and not moved, no contact with the head to the piston. connecting rod bolts at at torque spec.
there is a little rock when the piston is at TDC. about .020 measured at or near TDC pushed the bottom of the piston till it was at its lowest point then set my gauge to 0 then pushed on the top side for full movement.
only have maybe 10-12 nights on it. not much over 7000-7500
 
Did you do anything to the engine after it was pull starting good or did it just start doing it on it’s own?
 
I did have the side cover come loose, at that point. I pulled the motor that night and replaced the bolts and dowels with solid dowels and a stud kit. checked the connecting rod torque, added new side cover gasket. ran well started as normal after that. i just cleaned the piston top, hardly any carbon, and the numbers don't show up on ARC page.. 12288M07000 9513J
 
I know you posted the following but look again closer. Kick back is valve adjust or flywheel slipped. Just for poops and giggles after you make sure the flywheel key isn’t beginning to shear, set the valves while at TDC @ .001and see if you still have kick
 
I had similar problem after purchasing a new slightly used hemi Predator built engine. Took it to my engine builder who found out previous engine builder had not provided proper clearance between the aftermarket camshaft and crankshaft. I was able to pull engine over easily at first before it got to the point of almost breaking my arm too. He told me this is a common procedure to provide clearance between aftermarket camshafts and stock crankshafts on Predator engines.
 
thank you everyone for the responses. i'm going to put a new bearing in the rod, clean everything extremely well and start the reassemble. I'll verify the rod, crank to the cam clearances... maybe something moved.. didn't check that before i started the tear down.. as for the flywheel key, good shape no markings on it or stress marks. flywheel looks good. will double check the compression release. (that and the valve were my first thought's when the issue started.) no metal in the oil when i took it apart.
 
short update as I've found some time to get back to this engine.
after a very through cleaning and inspection of the parts. I've started reassembly. it appears that part of my issue may have been, to thin of a head gasket. I am so close to zero deck, that I cant get a number. the piston rock puts either end out of the hole. Luckily the head and the top of the piston look good, so if there was contact, it wasn't much. The gasket was .011 and will be going to the oem type firing ring. .050. The compression release is in good shape. More later..
 
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