Box Stock

Push rods

youngengines said:
I wasn't trying to be mean, I hope it didn't sound that way. The problem I see, is the way I port (raise the intake port), it get's real thin at the spring pocket (the angle of the valve makes it that way).
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I agree . I was worried about the thin base after cutting spring pockets for duels so I used longer valve stems and cut my own keeper groove. This eliminated the need to go deep, Just a bit wider..
 
LOUMAR said:
If it works for you do it. I won't say you are wrong. I'm just saying what I have found out through many years of testing by the major cam companys. Lighter weight makes a big difference on the valve side of the rocker but very little on the pushrod side. Also larger pounds of spring and rates make the longer pushrods flex more.
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I guess that goes to show, you're never to old to learn !
 
Lowbudgetkarter said:
What size push rods will I need with hemi head cut 80,ss valves,55#springs,307nr cam?
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on one of my hemi motors, with an NR Racing race head (milled .080), i used Raceseng Adj Push rods. i did not want to use the cut to fits and have to "creep" up on the measurement). I determined the length but marking the top of the lash cap with a dry erase marker... setting it close, using a length given to me by two trusted builders, rolling the motor over, with oil in it) and adj as needed.. geometry is good... (the length may be between 5.35 and 5.45, depending on how much has been cut)

however if you choose to use the racesengs, make sure the area in the head, where the push rods go through is smooth. hard to describe so will post a pic... i broke the intake push rod, during a test and tune... just clearanced this and putting the head back on, right now...
IMG_6170.jpg


initially the rod kept adjusting itself... then i used blue loctite as was recommended.. this stop the rod from being able to turn and unscrew itself... however this also allowed me to see the issue (because the rod broke)...

here you can see where the rod was rubbing on the factory casting, the right hole is the intake side, the exhaust side rubbed very little, I clearanced both to make sure
IMG_6171.jpg


and after i massaged it a little
IMG_6175.jpg
 
LSCustoms said:
on one of my hemi motors, with an NR Racing race head (milled .080)
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the motor has the following (main mods):
ARC Billet Flywheel
ARC 6236 Billet Rod (3.595" X .490")
11132P94 Wiseco Piston (2.756" X .640")
Isky Black Mamba cam (275" LIFT 246 DURATION @ .050" 108 L.S.A.)
26 lb springs
NR Racing Hemi Head (milled .080, 28mm/25mm, retainers, etc)
honda (silver) .010 gasket
GX390 Carb, adj jet
Raceseng Billet Lifters
Raceseng Adj push rods
and misc
it likes 100 octane VP, but havent tried any other fuel... trying to get it to someone to dyno tune

for pushrod geometry, tip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqx8Cs6O6Vo
 
Kart43 said:
One of the first steps to a quality build is to remove casting flash and deburr.
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this motor is as quality as i could build, sir. and quality parts as well... i am learning a ton as i go and doing my own building (so far). i purchased the head, new and done, from a reputable builder... sold the stock... just bolted it on and set the geometry... i did not want to mill, nor port the head myself and i would not have known to do anything further to the head, without the problem occuring... if i would have used cut to fits, im quite sure it would nt have been a problem, as far as the thickness... also the standard head wouldnt have presented a problem... there wasnt much info on the hemi stuff out and about... i did a complete write up on it, including prices paid etc and remain humble in any constructive criticism on anything done.
 
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