Box Stock

PVL vs. ARC Flywheels

JPR57 said:
70% of damaged key ways are caused by the keys not being installed correctly. 25% because the flywheel was not properly lapped or torqued and the remaining 5% is because foreign material interrupted the mate (not cleaned). The key should run parallel to the shaft not the taper. If the key is higher on the engine side it will not allow the flywheel and crank tapers to mate properly, it should not stick up at all on the engine side of the taper. The key should be higher on the thread side of the shaft. This is the whole reason why we do not run keys, its only job is to hold the flywheel in place so the wheel and crank tapers mate up while being torqued. The key does not nor will not hold the flywheel from spinning, that is the tapers job. Lap the wheel using a medium compound, clean the wheel and shaft very well and torque to a minimum of 60 ft/lbs. Some use 80 to 90 ft/lbs. True SFI will not make your kart faster, but ABS brakes, air bags nor seat belts make your car faster either. It just gives you piece of mind.
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I'd say 62% are bad installs, 18% are crank tolerance issues and 10% are getting grease up into the mating areas and 5% are because of the materials and 5% are the adjustment (or tail range). If you can't run a regular lapping belt, you need to have someone do it for you.
 
I'm stuck in the stone age.
So its my apples and oranges comparison

I am still using GXV 160 flywheels, because they are light and at time of purchase they were the cheapest of all.
But I have an older ARC on one engine.

The difference is obvious in the quality of the metal and manufacturing process.

The ARC magnets are hell on a clone coil and they fail if you leave the resistor in the boot ( I suspect they induce a higher ignition voltage ).
Who leaves the button in the boot anyways ( I don't know but a beginner might make that mistake like I did )?

Maybe I try a PLV next because of the Steel hub ( that is my only source of concern since I pop these off a lot to make adjustments ).
 
Seems like there have been a few people that have had problems with fins breaking on the PVL flywheels, but the number of people having fins break with PVL is nothing compared to people that have problems with the keyway on the ARC billet wheels, from what iv seen. If the new ARC wheel has a steel hub in the middle, im sure that will solve that problem from now on though. Would still be hard for me to justify paying $40-50 more for a different flywheel just to be able to get more timing with it using a stock strait key, and because it is a little shinier. For those who dont know, you can polish the cast aluminum on the pvl wheels and make them a little shinier also, definately looks better than they do stock, might not look as nice as a billet one but looks good.
 
i had a chance to tour the ARC facility in Albany, Ga....(Thanks Jody!) and if you will, they are not only a class act, but you woudn't believe the care that they take in producing quality products! Not on of the flyhweels that i saw being made were just "thrown around" after being cut. each one was handled with great care to make sure that the customer got what they are paying for. i watched them mount the magnets, wrap and package them for delivery. it was good to see that some take that kind of care.....

now, i'm not saying that the PVL doesn't have any place in racing, because it does. I'm sure that they take just as good of care when producing them, but i can't say that they were thinking about the abuse that "normal" racers put thier equipment through each race day. i've watched racers thrash and trash to get a motor running in time for thier heat or feature and we all need parts that will stand up to this abuse....and abuse is a good word for it! i had to get a friend to help me set my timing on my clone at the track and we weren't easy on getting the flywheel off (yes, it was the ARC 6619). dang thing still looks like it came out of the box!

would I recommend the PVL? Only for the very budget minded racers. The 66XX series from ARC? Yes...because of what i saw and the durability that they have. Cost being a factor, i much rather go with the ARC and paying more, than having a PVL shed fins when you look at them wrong....

and i'm not a big fan of the keys....had one twist and had a ---- of a time getting it unstuck and from that point on, i haven't used a key....and this the the abuse that i'm talking about......
 
Nicely done Mike! I appreciate 'quality' and it has a price. ARC and 'Clones' are a perfect match in the ARC can turn a 'yellow' motor into a piece of Gold! They learned (maybe brought) quality and durability into the Drag Racing mentality, therefore they were already 'prepped' for Joe Karter...:) I will say that if there is too be a 'Mandated' flywheel...my choice/hope would call for the PVL.
 
jsstump#70 said:
I have used countless ARC parts. Flywheels, rods, steering racks, cranks, etc.... I will use them again. Darn nice stuff. Is their flywheel better than the PVL? I think so. Does it make more power? Probably not. Does "made in USA" mean anything to me? Yes. Would I change a few things about thier products? Yes. Call them and tell them. Be courtious. They will listen. Go with the ARC. By the way ARC, would love to see a 390 flywheel that will take the stock fins AND has starter ring gear. Would be cheaper and easier to make because no fin machining. Could start with a smaller billet blank too. Just saying.
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+1, with a steel hub and option to mount the starter cup and plastic fan please. To reduce weight I stripped all the electrics off mine and I pull start the beast:)
I wouldn't need the ring gear but I know I'm an exception there.
 
The question was, is there a real advantage?(hp etc.) Cost is a advantage. Weight and timing may or may not be depending on your driving style and track. From here it gets complicated and we do not have the room here!
 
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