Q98 pipe

I ran the q98 on a 116 PCR with a mikuni 34 on alky and loved it. Although it did take a lot of pop off and fulcrum arm height tuning.
 
I don’t understand, “a bit much”, in what way? By “blubbery”, do you mean rich? And if it does mean rich, why couldn’t you just adjust the the needles? And when you say, “that track”, in what way is that track any different from other tracks?

Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.

Damn Al think about what u r asking. What happens when u over carbe on a short tight track coming out of corners or over carbe on short straights vs. a long sweaping track with larger carbe where the engine can stretch out & Eat or under carbed on longer sweeping track where it needs more but doesn't have enough. THINK man THINK
 
Mike IMHO - I disagree with a 5hp gain or even less than 25% of that gain. Set that mild engine up with a 24mm brioni/ibea/triton/hubchen/tilly 360a on gas or modified alky on a tight track or possibly a messaged walboro 1.050 w3ba on a wot oval or if the engine has a little port work & ehaust port timing & some cut pistons & 9cc combustion chamber & a little case porting U might want try a atomized ibea/ 29mm carbe a atomized 380 modified. I believe u'll find the Q 98 to work just fine with a stock to super stock or even mild open gas or alky late triple port design 100cc reed/rotary & quite possibly same same for up to 116 cc - JMHO

That's OK. Just telling you what Hilton's engine did on Kermit ' dyno. Maybe I'm wrong. Ask Hilton.
Mike
 
That's OK. Just telling you what Hilton's engine did on Kermit ' dyno. Maybe I'm wrong. Ask Hilton.
Mike

IMHO - KB 06/Q98/KB01/KB02/KBDOM/original noise banned KBDY?? or RLV Pro80 or 81/82 or S3/S4/G2 & original RLV noise banned pipe w/o label (just weld a good muffler section on them - but more to come on that forthcoming later) on alky or gas I get approx 10% more hp by switching alky vs gas carbe regardless of the pipe on the same engine nothwithstanding flex & other such adjustments. The factor surely seems to be the fuel & not the pipe. I've heard all the arguments on sound waves in the pipe depending on the fuel type & alky pipes vs gas. IMHO a good pipe is a good pipe for the situation regardless of fuel type. Not withstanding the out of the corner alky bog. I just happen to favor all those pipes I mentioned above JMHO
 
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IMHO - KB 06/Q98/KB01/KB02/KBDOM/original noise banned KBDY?? or RLV Pro80 or 81/82 or S3/S4/G2 & original RLV noise banned pipe w/o label (just weld a good muffler section on them - but more to come on that forthcoming later) on alky or gas I get approx 10% more hp by switching alky vs gas carbe regardless of the pipe on the same engine nothwithstanding flex & other such adjustments. The factor surely seems to be the fuel & not the pipe. I've heard all the arguments on sound waves in the pipe depending on the fuel type & alky pipes vs gas. IMHO a good pipe is a good pipe for the situation regardless of fuel type. Not withstanding the out of the corner alky bog. I just happen to favor all those pipes I mentioned above JMHO

That info is something I've always wanted to know. If there is any difference with pipe designs for alky or gas it seems the differences are fairly small. Definitely not enough difference for me to be worried about when running our mandatory gas fuel. I mean I assume we are talking same compression and head designs and measuring the difference in engine performance with just a change over from gas to alky carbs perhaps with a small ignition adjustment.
 
I ran the q98 on a 116 PCR with a mikuni 34 on alky and loved it. Although it did take a lot of pop off and fulcrum arm height tuning.

IMHO - that sounds like a great setup for a stock ported 115 albeit with one mod I'd drop the 34mm down to a billet cup atomized 29mm alky. if it were a real upper middle to full tilt open ported 115 with 11.5 cc combustion chambers (some pretty good compression with that size piston) I'd bump up to a KB01 or RLV Pro 80 (maybe modified with a 2nd exit hole depending) & go with a billet cup atomized 34mm and a very high slip to get it on the pipe out of the corners with that carbe. - JMHO
 
That info is something I've always wanted to know. If there is any difference with pipe designs for alky or gas it seems the differences are fairly small. Definitely not enough difference for me to be worried about when running our mandatory gas fuel. I mean I assume we are talking same compression and head designs and measuring the difference in engine performance with just a change over from gas to alky carbs perhaps with a small ignition adjustment.

Arc - FYI - Just remember one significant difference in alky vs gas is with alky ur probably going to run .010 Before TDC more timing advance than u will with petrol (gas) for example -- .090 BTDC on petrol & .100 BTDC on alky. If u plan far enough in advance u could run a 12.5cc combustion chamber volume (lower compression) and perhaps another .005 (maybe go from .005 ---> .0055 clearance) & bump the timing on alky to .110 BTDC if u need to set the engine on "KILL" to beat the top 5 in the country. This is notwithstanding there's nothing left to get out of your kart & physical self and your handling , tires, grip, chassis setup, brakes, are dead nuts ON. It may come down to plenty of water & juiced veggies & not eating solid food & a triple dose of metamusal 48 hours before race time. Hey whatever it takes to be a champion. Oh my.....LOL :p
 
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Arc - FYI - Just remember one significant difference in alky vs gas is with alky ur probably going to run .010 Before TDC more timing advance than u will with petrol (gas) for example -- .090 BTDC on petrol & .100 BTDC on alky. If u plan far enough in advance u could run a 12.5cc combustion chamber volume (lower compression) and perhaps another .005 (maybe go from .005 ---> .0055 clearance) & bump the timing on alky to .110 BTDC if u need to set the engine on "KILL" to beat the top 5 in the country. This is notwithstanding there's nothing left to get out of your kart & physical self and your handling , tires, grip, chassis setup, brakes, are dead nuts ON. It may come down to plenty of water & juiced veggies & not eating solid food & a triple dose of metamusal 48 hours before race time. Hey whatever it takes to be a champion. Oh my.....LOL :p

Why do you say petrol? thats what its called here, petrol for petroleum fuel. You guys normally say gas for gasoline? :)
 
I have no experience with what you guys are running now, but with my Macs, on alky, I set the timing with as little advance as possible. Nobody had a faster 125 then me.
Even with my stock foreign K 78, which finished 2nd at the 1977 nationals, and 1st in the last heat, I had the timing set at .060" BTDC.
"Blubbering on the low-end" I don't understand that. Seems like a simple carb adjustment to me. What am I missing?
I really don't understand lower compression ratios! There is a limit, with gas, because of detonation, but that limit is much higher with alcohol. Compression is, "the Holy Grail." And nobody can convince me otherwise.
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
 
IMHO - that sounds like a great setup for a stock ported 115 albeit with one mod I'd drop the 34mm down to a billet cup atomized 29mm alky. if it were a real upper middle to full tilt open ported 115 with 11.5 cc combustion chambers (some pretty good compression with that size piston) I'd bump up to a KB01 or RLV Pro 80 (maybe modified with a 2nd exit hole depending) & go with a billet cup atomized 34mm and a very high slip to get it on the pipe out of the corners with that carbe. - JMHO

I agree 100%. Your knowledge is far greater than mine. I don't even have a clue what ur talking about when you say atomized carb, cup atomized. Forgive me just my lack of knowledge. We just use what we have on hand. Try to call carb guys and they just give cold shoulder unless ya shell out some big bucks. I currently run a h2o PCR 100cc, mildly opened, kb06 with 34mm alky mikuni. Any suggestions on a possible better pipe/carb combo?
 
Nunley - " I really don't understand "
Nunley - " And nobody can convince me otherwise. "

Well... Al ....
BANG !! U hit it right out of the park. ;p

IMHO -
What can I say u said it best urself.... And who am I to argue otherwise ? - JMHO ;p

Damn this forum is pure classic
 
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Nunley - " I really don't understand "
Nunley - " And nobody can convince me otherwise. "

Well... Al ....
BANG !! U hit it right out of the park. ;p

IMHO -
What can I say u said it best urself.... And who am I to argue otherwise ? - JMHO ;p

Damn this forum is pure classic
I can only guess of course, but it sounds like you can't answer the questions. I can only go by what I hear, but I hear there are over 5,000,000 comedians who have stopped looking for work.
 
IMHO - that sounds like a great setup for a stock ported 115 albeit with one mod I'd drop the 34mm down to a billet cup atomized 29mm alky. if it were a real upper middle to full tilt open ported 115 with 11.5 cc combustion chambers (some pretty good compression with that size piston) I'd bump up to a KB01 or RLV Pro 80 (maybe modified with a 2nd exit hole depending) & go with a billet cup atomized 34mm and a very high slip to get it on the pipe out of the corners with that carbe. - JMHO
That is interesting. I was never really happy with the KB01's power band width or its over wind capabilities. I was always happier with a Pro 81/2 or a KB06. I always needed dual carbs on them due to cooling issues on the air cooled engines. Now, if you ran it at a track where you breathe the engine a whole bunch a single is fine but if you can really stay on the fuel to the point where you are lifting for just a second or two, I just never had luck with a single carb.
There are some tracks where even the KB06 pipe doesn't have the band width I need. A perfect example of that is Daytona. That place requires that you really slow down in the corners and I like to stay off the clutch in the corners so that requires more band width. I am hoping the KBL, with the proper cylinder mods, will give what I want.
It is interesting to see things from a different view......
Mike
 
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