Red clay prep

1 1/2" front, 1 1/4" or less in the rear for stagger.
2 ounces of Medium Rare in the rights, 1 ounce in the lefts.
Depending on how much bite the track will have, what you will use on the outside.
Can't go wrong with a few coats of Black Bite 2.0 early in the week, then hit them with Monster Bite right before pushing to the grid.
Internal roll (how much and when) really depends on the track, weather, and car count. If you only have one set to work with, be conservative on prep, and keep an eye on the weather for the weekend.


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Thank you guys for responding. I have 3 sets. Already rolled 2 for the track i normally run and will try prep a set for clay
 
What preps do you have avalible too use ?
Might get different advice .
Something too add bite yet not soften a bunch .
A quick shower might call for a shot of goat pee .
 
You'll need Internal rolled for sure, amount will depend on how fresh tires are, If your trying older already race tires that don't get raced much good luck, they will need re rolled internally. If your going in with NO proven tire knowledge and just rolling the dice, If new I'd roll 75 cc Internal in the rights, 50 cc in the lefts, and wipe with a medium based prep, capped off with something just for bite, If older flip on wheel so best shoulder is on inside edges, re roll same internal, wipe more medium base prep than if fresh.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have HL victory lane, acrysol, pink internal, monster bite. Black bite, krug, black sand, and a little medium
 
You'll need Internal rolled for sure, amount will depend on how fresh tires are, If your trying older already race tires that don't get raced much good luck, they will need re rolled internally. If your going in with NO proven tire knowledge and just rolling the dice, If new I'd roll 75 cc Internal in the rights, 50 cc in the lefts, and wipe with a medium based prep, capped off with something just for bite, If older flip on wheel so best shoulder is on inside edges, re roll same internal, wipe more medium base prep than if fresh.
Does this also apply to Burris 33's on Red Clay also? We got a Red Clay track here in KY that I've not been able to get a grip on just yet.
 
1 1/2" front, 1 1/4" or less in the rear for stagger.
2 ounces of Medium Rare in the rights, 1 ounce in the lefts.
Depending on how much bite the track will have, what you will use on the outside.
Can't go wrong with a few coats of Black Bite 2.0 early in the week, then hit them with Monster Bite right before pushing to the grid.
Internal roll (how much and when) really depends on the track, weather, and car count. If you only have one set to work with, be conservative on prep, and keep an eye on the weather for the weekend.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
does the monster bite just give bite or does it soften a little
 
does the monster bite just give bite or does it soften a little
Monster Bite adds a ton of bite and is an aggressive softener - (2-3 points per coat.)
Best used early in the week to get the duro down where you need it from the outside.
Also is our "go-to" PRW (pre-race wipe.) It can be wet on the grid for tracks with moisture. It should be dry (or at least tacked up) for a dry track.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
35 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Does this also apply to Burris 33's on Red Clay also? We got a Red Clay track here in KY that I've not been able to get a grip on just yet.
I'll let Ken reply to this as well since you asked him, but we typically do not roll internal in Burris. There are times (small bullring tracks with a 33 rule where you need to prep them way down like an 11) that we would roll some Pink Panther internally. We've also internally prepped with Medium Rare to help with heat build-up and conditioning (ie replacing oils in the tires) for tracks that bite up hard and build excess tire temp.
If it's one of the tracks I am thinking of that you're struggling on, you don't need internal there at all.
 
Does this also apply to Burris 33's on Red Clay also? We got a Red Clay track here in KY that I've not been able to get a grip on just yet.
Sorry Guy just realize I missed this , No You'll NEVER treat a 33 the same as you do Maxxis , not even close.
Red Clay should mean good clay and provided they don't have a big steel drum vibratory roller and use it to help keep the track smooth, 33s should be NO prep with a set that was NEVER prepped, You can use a little Internal prep in 33s but 30 cc max, even then you can only use them for certain circumstance you'll encounter , mostly when tracks has excess moisture and it holds it. If they use the Roller then it will seal over like Weedsport and you'll wipe Aggressive all day long .
Hope this helps !!
 
If they use the Roller then it will seal over like Weedsport and you'll wipe Aggressive all day long .
Hope this helps !!
This point here is why I asked this question. At The Farm Track in Ky everyone is wiping aggressive all day long. The idea is start with an older harder tire and pound it down into the 40's. Yet the track surface is as hard as anything I've seen. I do not understand how saturating a tire with oil works best. This is the track that I showed my tires from a couple weeks ago where there was NO sign of graining after a 20 lap feature.

This does not make sense to me.
 
This point here is why I asked this question. At The Farm Track in Ky everyone is wiping aggressive all day long. The idea is start with an older harder tire and pound it down into the 40's. Yet the track surface is as hard as anything I've seen. I do not understand how saturating a tire with oil works best. This is the track that I showed my tires from a couple weeks ago where there was NO sign of graining after a 20 lap feature.

This does not make sense to me.
Ok here it goes a not so Intelligent common Hillbilly, going to try to explain this to a much more Intelligent Engineer , Hang tight guy's this could get Interesting !!
For whatever reason this surface always Seals over , Really hard does not always mean Grip , Plus part of the reason It seals over always, is all the different mixes of materials are more finer , with no Abrasive materials in any of those different materials , Abrasive Materials would atleast work the tires more causing them to generate some heat , which would = some Grip , That Sealed over top 3/16 of an inch deep is like laying a 3/16 " thick Sheet of Glass on top of a really compacted dirt surface , and it takes all that Aggressive chemical to even start to hook up , the ones that hook up the most make the most end up maximizing forward drive the most . Now as Far as WHY oily preps end up gripping the most not even going to try to explain that , 20 yrs ago when I first saw someone spraying WD 40 all over tires , I told him he was NUTS , Makes No sense Either but it helps . There are just certain things that take place in Racing that Absolutely make NO sense what so ever , And for you Engineers that race and have to understand it or it is just unacceptable and drives you guy's nuts , it makes it very tough , I guess unless Making a Pizza in a Circle , After Baking Cutting it into Triangle pieces , and putting it into a square box makes sense to you , you'll never make sense of certain things. So I'll stop there and turn it over to Shaw95 !!
 
Ok here it goes a not so Intelligent common Hillbilly, going to try to explain this to a much more Intelligent Engineer , Hang tight guy's this could get Interesting !!
For whatever reason this surface always Seals over , Really hard does not always mean Grip , Plus part of the reason It seals over always, is all the different mixes of materials are more finer , with no Abrasive materials in any of those different materials , Abrasive Materials would atleast work the tires more causing them to generate some heat , which would = some Grip , That Sealed over top 3/16 of an inch deep is like laying a 3/16 " thick Sheet of Glass on top of a really compacted dirt surface , and it takes all that Aggressive chemical to even start to hook up , the ones that hook up the most make the most end up maximizing forward drive the most . Now as Far as WHY oily preps end up gripping the most not even going to try to explain that , 20 yrs ago when I first saw someone spraying WD 40 all over tires , I told him he was NUTS , Makes No sense Either but it helps . There are just certain things that take place in Racing that Absolutely make NO sense what so ever , And for you Engineers that race and have to understand it or it is just unacceptable and drives you guy's nuts , it makes it very tough , I guess unless Making a Pizza in a Circle , After Baking Cutting it into Triangle pieces , and putting it into a square box makes sense to you , you'll never make sense of certain things. So I'll stop there and turn it over to Shaw95 !!
You've nailed me here. It does drive me nuts because it does t make sense. I get some oil making it grip better. But, I don't get 5,6,7 coats.

After your post earlier I decided to ask the track how they prepare the track. They only have one race per month and it usually is a pretty good 150+ kart count event.

Response
"Sure I don’t mind. We don’t ever till it. We only tear it up if it gets rutted out due to heavy rainfall in-between races or if we change the track surface in anyway. Then we don’t necessarily tear it up. I use my Harley Power Box Rake attachment to work it up,fill in the ruts,level it and condition the dirt. Then we put a 1000gal of water on it let it soak in for about 30/45 minutes then we roll it in with the track trucks. Then if it needs it we drag the fluid filled turf tread tractor tires over it to fill in the smaller spots until they’re gone. Then we water it again and drag the tires over it till it gets smooth and shiny on top. We have never used calcium we don’t like it."

Here is a picture of the track.
 

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You've nailed me here. It does drive me nuts because it does t make sense. I get some oil making it grip better. But, I don't get 5,6,7 coats.

After your post earlier I decided to ask the track how they prepare the track. They only have one race per month and it usually is a pretty good 150+ kart count event.

Response
"Sure I don’t mind. We don’t ever till it. We only tear it up if it gets rutted out due to heavy rainfall in-between races or if we change the track surface in anyway. Then we don’t necessarily tear it up. I use my Harley Power Box Rake attachment to work it up,fill in the ruts,level it and condition the dirt. Then we put a 1000gal of water on it let it soak in for about 30/45 minutes then we roll it in with the track trucks. Then if it needs it we drag the fluid filled turf tread tractor tires over it to fill in the smaller spots until they’re gone. Then we water it again and drag the tires over it till it gets smooth and shiny on top. We have never used calcium we don’t like it."

Here is a picture of the track.
By there statement Dragging it till " SHINY " on top , That's the sign of being sealed over , That answers the question for what ever reason it always seals over . I'd love to know WHY the say they NEVER use Calcium they don't LIKE it ?
Can't believe you didn't comment on the round pizza , cut into triangle pieces, putting in a square box , thing Guy lol
 
So.... that's a lot to digest. But, it spells disaster for a good track. The dirt is just not great dirt for natural bite. So you have to use chemical. If they didn't drag it to completely seal it off it would probably be better. They should drag it some, but not enough to completely seal it over. There is a fine line of how much you can drag one and it usually corresponds really similar to how much water it has in it and how much it can retain with the dirt compound. From the sound of it a typical red prep would be the best thing on a Burris there.

Heat is the answer to the oils in prep, btw. Everything I can see with tires revolves around heat, and Heat management.
 
This point here is why I asked this question. At The Farm Track in Ky everyone is wiping aggressive all day long. The idea is start with an older harder tire and pound it down into the 40's. Yet the track surface is as hard as anything I've seen. I do not understand how saturating a tire with oil works best. This is the track that I showed my tires from a couple weeks ago where there was NO sign of graining after a 20 lap feature.

This does not make sense to me.
Not everyone was wiping aggressive all day long.
I know of at least one fellow who won in a competitive class that was on our tires and preps.

Those wiping goat and green are just trying to get ahold of the track. You can pound a tire down and burn it in, but a properly prepared tire "ahead of time" will be better when you're on a low bite / no bite track surface.
Hard does not equal high bite. You can have hard slick too. ;)
 
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