Stinger clutch problems

There is no end play on the clutch. With the spacer that goes on the crank the clutch sticks over the end of the crank .040 or .050 thousandths. When the clutch bit is thightend it is tight on the crankshaft. This is what the Stinger company said to do. I don't know. Seems like it would have a little end play but that's what they said.
 
bullerman said:
There is no end play on the clutch. With the spacer that goes on the crank the clutch sticks over the end of the crank .040 or .050 thousandths. When the clutch bit is thightend it is tight on the crankshaft. This is what the Stinger company said to do. I don't know. Seems like it would have a little end play but that's what they said.
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If there is space between the clutch and the end of the crankshaft, put a couple washers on the end of the clutch bolt that will fit inside the space, then tighten your clutch bolt, should have a little end play, if not go another washer or 2, might need to use a longer clutch bolt to make sure there are plenty of threads going into the end of the crank...
 
spincycle said:
If there is space between the clutch and the end of the crankshaft, put a couple washers on the end of the clutch bolt that will fit inside the space, then tighten your clutch bolt, should have a little end play, if not go another washer or 2, might need to use a longer clutch bolt to make sure there are plenty of threads going into the end of the crank...
Click to expand...
The cause most likely is the clutch driver gear your using, different brands have different thicknesses, the thin ones should line up.the clutch with the end of the crankshaft pretty close, the thicker ones make it so the clutch looks to not be all the way in even with the end of the crankshaft, that's when you need to fill that space with a few washers to create a little side play...
 
When I ran a stinger on the Chinese clone engine, I used bully drivers, clutch bolt usually needed 2-3 washers on it to allow for a little side play..
 
What spincycle said. They have to be 5/16 washers with no bigger than 3/4 O.D. which effectively just make the crank a little bit longer. I actually run an extra washer in there, the clutch travels a bit further. The reason- I have never had a chain issue since doing this.
 
I used to do that with Bully clutches. I had a Hillard Flame before this Stinger. I mounted it like that. It stuck out over the end of the crank. I ihave a pretty good selection of different size and thickness washers. I would do what you said. Use the washers to get a little end play.
What I don't understand is the people at Stinger say to bolt the clutch tight on the crankshaft with no end play. The Flame was the same way.
I have used a 14 Bully driver with Bully snap ring and used a Tuck and run 13 tooth driver with their snap ring. Both fit tight.
I can try a little end play and see if it helps. I took it apart yesterday and sanded the drum and shoes. Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and wiped it down with wd-40. Put it back together with orange springs this time instead of blue. When I talked to the guy at Stinger he told me it sounded like I was engaging the clutch too soon.
A lot of people say their Stinger chatters. Maybe mine is just worse than others.
 
I did when i put it back together yesterday. I don't guess without wd 40 it was grabbing g too hard. When I got it back from Martinbuilt it had a great finish on it. I just ran it. Didn't do anything to it. Going to try it again here at the house.
 
Agree with medusa51. We only used WD-40 on hilliard clutches. They use oil impregnated shoes on the fury, flame and blaze clutches. Never use WD-40 on a hilliard fire either or your fiber shoes will probably burn up immediately.
 
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We are racing Saturday. This track let's us run a disc clutch. I have a Viper that was a friend of mines clutch. He was running it on his sons beginner kart with Box Stock Predator. I put it on my kart today. It is like daylight and dark between the Stinger and it. It has a great engagement, good and solid and looks like 2800or 2900. Probably be awhile before I have to run the Stinger.
 
I haven't seen a single complaint from you other than noise. I have 2 of them, both noisy as hell, but work well. And I really like mine. Yes, the disc clutch will be more quiet.
 
Mine doesn't work well. I may be doing something wrong but I don't know what it is. I would be more than glad if I can find out what it is.
The people from Stinger say bolt the clutch tight to the crank other people say run end play. The few times I have ran it I had it been tight. How do you have yours? Wish I could post a few pictures of what the drum and shoes looked like after I ran it. The shoes and drum looked like they just contacted in places. Not even at all. I think it is severe chatter but I am not sure. Any information or advice you can suggest I would appreciate.
Oh it is noisy. When I am sitting there idling it sounds Ike someone is ringing a dinner bell.
 
This just occurred to me. My Stinger came with a stepped washer to use with the mounting bolt which, its orientation depending how much end play the clutch has on the crank, if any. Is it possible the folks at Stinger assume you are using it as intended? In that case, yes tighten that baby up if you are using that washer correctly.
 
I think they call it a hat washer. I put the clutch on with the spacer against the crank. I then put the hat washer on and it has way to much end play. I don't see how you could use it.
There was one of the kids karts at the races Saturday night that sound e d terrible on the grid. About the way mine sounded. I start we d to ask them what kind of clutch they were running but didn't get around to it. Wondered if it was a Stinger. We were able to run a disc clutch at the track I have been running so I haven't fooled with the Stinger.
 
About your clutch chatter complaints, Ron Rollins at Stealth Clutches just posted a video about this. Good stuff, I would suggest you watch it.
 
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