Valve Lash

10mm ,14mm box end wrenches. Loosen 10mm lock nut, rotate engine to a few degrees beyond TDC on the compression stroke. Both valves fully closed carefully turn 14mm until the push rod has very slight resistance when you try to turn it with your thumb and finger.hold 14
mm snug 10mm lock nut down check the rotation of the push rod.
 
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Is it possible to compress the spring enough to move the rocker out of the way then swap springs and re assemble? I would also pack the compression chamber with some rope.
 
I'm not sure you can just move the rocker for a spring change, its just so easy to loosen the rockers and swap springs-literally takes 5 mins.
 
I’ve only run two seasons, and do this myself too. Just like kart43 stayed above. You should still be able to rotate pushrods with your fingers, when you have correct adjustment.
 
Is it possible to compress the spring enough to move the rocker out of the way then swap springs and re assemble? I would also pack the compression chamber with some rope.
I do it this way all the time. Just push the rocker down on the spring side and rotate . On the compression stroke , or when rocker is closed.
add rope to keep valves up when changing springs if air is not available.
 
Is it possible to compress the spring enough to move the rocker out of the way then swap springs and re assemble? I would also pack the compression chamber with some rope.

^ X 2

Note: some of the new light weight retainers can be a little stubborn to remove, especially on the intake side.
 
You can use a piece of rope (to put under the valve with Piston at TDC compression stroke to keep valve from dropping down to far) or you can use a tie strap with piston at TDC.
 
If I were going to redesign the tool, I would make it 2 inches longer, with a longer nut to make screwing into spark plug hole easier.
I have the same problem threading rope into the hole.

Just need a crewman with gynecologist hands. Lol
 
Pop the rockers roll it to the bottom.
Twist rope as feeding in .
For me.
Nylon is the worst , sisal , is best. Or cotton.
 
Theres lots of motors thats won $10,000 races that you cant do this with.
The top builders are pre loading the lash. Remember, lash grows as engine warms.

I've tried preloading like this and no matter what I do I can't seem to get the engine to start with any preload I lose all compression. As soon as I back it off to "0" lash or .0005" it fires right up and my engines run strong. I'd love to know what I'm doing wrong...
 
I was going to state the same thing it usually takes me 1/2 hour easy and the valve cover comes off 2 or 3 times to hit it just how I want. They are finniky with those light springs
 
That may be how they win 10,000 dollars.
I have seen the same thing as Tiller and Oval.
hot shot comes up to the grid and engine won't start .
next trip up after a valve adjustment it starts.
It works for some , maybe they preheat the engine before starting .
Maybe they're better mechanic's then me .
 
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