Viper clutch air gap

T

Trition12

Member
I have a viper clutch and taking it apart to clean and put new parts on it. I am setting my spring height at .450” to start out with and want engagement at 4,000 rpm. I am looking for the air gap spec and the tolerance on the plates. I am also wanting to know where I can get the levers. It is setup with black springs
 
Almost anyone can get levers, whether through a clutch builder or a parts distributor such as Dyno Cams, JC specialty, etc.

Plate "specs" depends on if it was new to you and not machined, or machined already. Normally the back plate starts its life around .172-.175, pressure plate around .140. Thats with an .095 floater. Air gap would be around .035 brand new no shim no machining. Friction disks make a difference too, bully are around .123-.125 when new, HP style or hard aftermarket can range all the way from .125 to above .130 when new.

If friction disks measure under .118 its most likely worn out/out of spec on air gap assuming measurements I gave above.
 
ColeAchey said:
Almost anyone can get levers, whether through a clutch builder or a parts distributor such as Dyno Cams, JC specialty, etc.

Plate "specs" depends on if it was new to you and not machined, or machined already. Normally the back plate starts its life around .172-.175, pressure plate around .140. Thats with an .095 floater. Air gap would be around .035 brand new no shim no machining. Friction disks make a difference too, bully are around .123-.125 when new, HP style or hard aftermarket can range all the way from .125 to above .130 when new.

If friction disks measure under .118 its most likely worn out/out of spec on air gap assuming measurements I gave above.
Click to expand...
I forgot the oritation of the plates so is it best to get new ones
 
Mike Curry is your "go-to" guy on all Gator/Viper/etc. clutches and parts. Lots of pretty colors and cool names, but generally few differences from one to the other. They all start life as the same basic clutch.
As Cole said, any clutch guy or well stocked kart shop will have parts in stock for these clutches.


-----
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If they are used they should .
Due too the wear/bedding in factor .
That said im sure plenty have been taken apart and reassembled without concern.
Brian has made it clear its best to mark them . Before hand .
Theres no real choice if not marked .
 
Thats a hard question too answer . Your competition level , ability to determine usability and expendable income all play in .
A new clutch is always nice a blueprinted clutch even better .
If they are wore any probably ,
What do they measure ?
 
Both current Viper Levers (Small pin and Big pin) are designed for an ideal air gap of .038"

Most bone stock clutches will fall between .025 and .035" when assembled. These clutches are not "air gap sensitive" as the springs longer length eliminates the huge progressive rate that a Tomar, Horstman, or Bully Spring will provide.

If you are grinding your clutch, shoot for .033" and it will end up at .038" after break in.


You can put a thicker floater in as air gap increases but will experience a little extra disk wear as the disk surfaces acclimate to the fresh floater. If you are doing this, make sure you mark the disks so direction and placement are the same as when disassembled, so the pressure plate and drive plate surfaces don't change.

I really like to build my clutches with one or two .010" shims, that way I don't have disk wear from a floater change. Most stock clutches will have a .095" floater.

Floaters are available in .090", .095", .100", .105", and .115"

Unfortunately the supplier of the .010" shim has decided to cease production, and I have not pursued a new source, so that option is currently not available.

Just about any good clutch builder can get you parts and service.
 
W
Michael Curry said:
Both current Viper Levers (Small pin and Big pin) are designed for an ideal air gap of .038"

Most bone stock clutches will fall between .025 and .035" when assembled. These clutches are not "air gap sensitive" as the springs longer length eliminates the huge progressive rate that a Tomar, Horstman, or Bully Spring will provide.

If you are grinding your clutch, shoot for .033" and it will end up at .038" after break in.


You can put a thicker floater in as air gap increases but will experience a little extra disk wear as the disk surfaces acclimate to the fresh floater. If you are doing this, make sure you mark the disks so direction and placement are the same as when disassembled, so the pressure plate and drive plate surfaces don't change.

I really like to build my clutches with one or two .010" shims, that way I don't have disk wear from a floater change. Most stock clutches will have a .095" floater.

Floaters are available in .090", .095", .100", .105", and .115"

Unfortunately the supplier of the .010" shim has decided to cease production, and I have not pursued a new source, so that option is currently not available.

Just about any good clutch builder can get you parts and service.
Click to expand...
When I disassembled my clutch it had no shims on it
 
Does any of plates look bad
32D682A0-0EBE-4B2A-8825-1FEC44831685.jpeg
 
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