What class is this

MO Predator Racer

MO Predator Racer

Member
I got an incredible deal today on 2 flatheads. Well one of them has a loop header but it has a trumpet end so it has no muffler and it has billet rod but stock style fuel tank. What class so this for? I didn’t think that the WKA or NKA or whatever association they are under didnt let them use billet rods and I thought they had to have a muffler. What class could this be?
It is the orange motor on the left.
 

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Look like a good buy....there aren't any places/tracks/series I'm personally aware of that still run sanctioned flathead motor classes, best guess us they were being used at "backyard" or fun racing tracks most likely...👍
 
They are likely stockers (WKA of IKF stock.) .233" ground cam, billet rod, welded lifter bores, billet lifters, etc etc. New ones sell for $1550 today.
Most local tracks still have one class of them, or you can run them with opens (where they won't be competitive at all.) ~9.0 CHP and usually turn up to around6800- 7000 rpm peak. Peak torque @ 3800-4000.

We still build a LOT of flatheads through our shop.
I saw literally hundreds of them for sale in PA over the weekend.
You sure didn't get hurt @ $50 on them. :)


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
The red onehas no pull start ability , could be indication its not a stock legal cam .
The one picture the cam lobe looks pretty flat on top another indication .
If you double your money your good .
 
I am gonna start them and then go from there. Both tanks are rusty so I am gonna toss them if they don't clean out or I have a bunch of rust-free tanks for sale so I will just use them probably and replace the diaphragm. The plastic piece on the carb inside the tank is broken on one of the carbs. Can I fix it or is it trash?
 
pour some rust remover in the tank along with a length of chain. shake it around (chain will roll around scraping up all the loose stuff) and see if they don't clean up. rebuilding them as stockers will be cheaper than making them Limited's.
 
I will try that as the rust in there is really just loose stuff. I think the tanks will be fine then. What about the broken piece on my carb?
 
Actually, they both press in. The short stem appears to thread in with a 3/8" box end, but in reality, it is simply knurled in the carb body. Tap it in with a small ballpein hammer and you're good to go.
The long stem can be one piece (brass) or 2 piece (with plastic bottom pick-up.)
If the plastic is broken, remove all old plastic and steel retaining ring from the brass stem, then heat the new replacement plastic pick-up in some boiling water (or very carefully with a heat gun / pencil torch) and slide it right on. No steel retaining ring is necessary on the new install.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Loop pipes always sounded the best. You will need a starter to start the one or something equivalent. It would be hard to get more than a 100 a piece without the build sheet on them. But both look nice
 
I have 3 loops sitting here ready to be bolted back on one of my many flatties. Only track I know of near me that still allows them is Ben hur speedway. Nothing like hearing 10-15 flatties on the grid with the loop pipe. I miss those days!
 
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