Beginner clutch trouble

B

bullerman

Member
Beginner predator has a bully clutch. After he would get out on the track clutch would get hit and lock up. I am sure he was on and off the gas a lot. Would the heat cause it to lock up.
I think for right now he just need to go with a maxtorque. Any suggestions.
 
Lack of lubrication seems more likely to me. Heat generally makes them slip. Maybe something came apart? Do you know anything about Bulleys? How they work, maintenance required, setup etc?
 
Know a little bit. Owner actually changed clutches. He is new to racing. I assume it has a bearing. He didn't lubricate it. I will pull it apart and lubricate if for sure and see if anything else looks wrong. It did look like the small screw in the drum for the snap ring had backed put a hair. I will fix that. Just didn't think the clutch should do that even with a beginner. I am not sure about engagement rpm either. Probably to high though. I figure for right now he could just use a cheap drum clutch. Box stock predator.
 
Too high of engagement could make it get hot, sure. Just being on and off the throttle a bunch, or riding the brake, can make them get hot too.
Always good to teach younger drivers about throttle and brake usage early on, no matter what clutch you're using.
If the clutch gets hot, it's slipping. The more it slips, the more it creates heat. The more heat it gets, the more it warps the steel plates. The more these plates get warped, the more the clutch will slip. Bottom line, it won't fix itself. Get the engagement correct if that's the problem, and work with your driver on foot control.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
33 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I know it has the wrong springs on it. Between springs set right and greasing the bearings is probably what's wrong. Brand new clutch. I think three race nights.
 
Are you cleaning the clutch every week? What are you using to lube the bearings. Whats the air gap? If you are tearing down, are you putting the clutches disc and floaters back in the same place? Are you cleaning the clutch discs?

I know, a lot of questions. What I have learned is it takes 15 mins to clean a clutch. Since I clean the chain and rear axel anyway, I make it a part of my routine. First week out this year I put a disc in the wrong place and chattered the clutch bad. Had to rebuild it with new discs and surface the front and back plates, faced the mandrill down to take up the slack. I can adjust this with spacers later if needed. I lube the bearings with a little bit of petroleum jelly. If you have lube in the basket after the races, you used to much.

I also take the weights out of the clutch 2-3 times a year, they can build up dirt and corrosion under them and get hung up. I've even seen them have a lip on the plate that hangs them up. A little fine grit sand paper or scotch bright and its a smooth surface again.
 
Be sure to check and make sure the levers are not tight.

99% of clutches that come through my shop that have issues, thats the problem. The Bully activator plate/levers have a very tight tolerance that if any rust or corrosion builds up, they will stick. Centrifugal force will easily throw the levers out to engage the clutch, but when the RPM comes down the levers will stick open.

Make sure there is no corrosion on the levers, and take a small file to the activator plate slots to make sure there is enough play. I also take the dowel pins out of the levers, run a wire brush through the lever holes, as well as chucking the dowel pins in my drill and running a fine strip of sand paper on them to clean them up.
 
JPMKarting said:
Be sure to check and make sure the levers are not tight.

99% of clutches that come through my shop that have issues, thats the problem. The Bully activator plate/levers have a very tight tolerance that if any rust or corrosion builds up, they will stick. Centrifugal force will easily throw the levers out to engage the clutch, but when the RPM comes down the levers will stick open.

Make sure there is no corrosion on the levers, and take a small file to the activator plate slots to make sure there is enough play. I also take the dowel pins out of the levers, run a wire brush through the lever holes, as well as chucking the dowel pins in my drill and running a fine strip of sand paper on them to clean them up.
Click to expand...
So Im not crazy. I do the same to all mine. The little dowels are a pain.
 
Lucky_7 said:
So Im not crazy. I do the same to all mine. The little dowels are a pain.
Click to expand...
Nope, not at all.

The problem gets compounded by the fact that the levers are coated from Bully to protect against corrision, however after use, that coating wears away and corrosion happens. Once you clean them up the first time (wire wheel, scotch brite, sandpaper, whatever) the rest of that coating is gone and now you REALLY have to stay on top of them. I prefer to clearance the activator plate just a little bit so if someone isnt comfortable taking their clutch apart every week, any corrosion wont hinder the lever working.
 
Good advice from JPM here.
Keeping a clutch clean (including rust and corrosion) are an important part of proper maintenance.
I've also seen clutches that rubbed the seat or seat strut where the weight levers and/or pins became bent and the activator plate is damaged where the weight lever needs to slide easily. Take a small file to clearance this, then resurface the activator plate lightly to make sure that it is completely flat. All things to check during routine maintenance.
 
OK, what is the secret
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Too high of engagement could make it get hot, sure. Just being on and off the throttle a bunch, or riding the brake, can make them get hot too.
Always good to teach younger drivers about throttle and brake usage early on, no matter what clutch you're using.
If the clutch gets hot, it's slipping. The more it slips, the more it creates heat. The more heat it gets, the more it warps the steel plates. The more these plates get warped, the more the clutch will slip. Bottom line, it won't fix itself. Get the engagement correct if that's the problem, and work with your driver on foot control.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
33 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Click to expand...
OK what is the seceret to "Always good to teach younger drivers about throttle and brake usage early on, no matter what clutch you're using."
 
IronHorse said:
OK, what is the secret

OK what is the seceret to "Always good to teach younger drivers about throttle and brake usage early on, no matter what clutch you're using."
Click to expand...
Not a secret at all, simply explaining how to drive without having both feet pushing on the pedals at the same time (at least to start out.)
Kids classes are way underpowered (as are adult stock classes in reality,) so they benefit from momentum, same as restrictor plate racing in Nascar. In that respect, these little guys and gals are learning to drive much like super-speedways. Any braking, any lifting, kills momentum.

For starts, standing starts or rolling starts, make sure they understand that the clutch needs fully engaged if they are wanting to go. Completely disengaged if they are wanting to stop.

Depending on your little one's ability to read a gauge and not be distracted by it, a gauge can be used to help the driver know when the clutch is engaged or not at idle. Ie if the clutch is set to engage @ 3000 rpm, then an idle rpm of 2200 will be safe. Make sure that you (dad) set the idle high enough that the engine does not stall when your driver is stopped on the track.
Much of the "fear" of holding the brake and the throttle at the same time is not letting the engine stall and this displeasing dad. Once they are assured that the idle has been set correctly, any stalling (or fault) is not on the driver. That takes a huge load off their shoulders. That engine should idle no matter where the driver's feet are.
 
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