Have you ever had that engine on a dyno? If yes, can you post the curve, or the numbers?we run a tight non momentum track so I always tend to go on the lighter side for a quicker engagement... I usually run mine 3,400-3,500 now.
I'm a little curious, momentum, can you give me your definition of what that means? I'm beginning to think that my interpretation of the word is little different from yours.we run a tight non momentum track so I always tend to go on the lighter side for a quicker engagement... I usually run mine 3,400-3,500 now.
I don't see it that way, the clutch has nothing to do with the RPM where the engine reaches peak torque!I would say 3600 to 3900 depending on the clutch.
What class are you running ? Weight ? What track size you do you run the most ? What type of clutch ? Disc or Drum ?What rpm should a clutch engage on an adult, big pipe clone?
Another thing; I don't see the connection between finding the right stall RPM and what you do the rest of the time you're on the track. Where's the connection? Finding the right stall speed for your clutch isn't going to help you get through the turns any faster.
That's exactly what I'm trying to point out.You’re partly right but it’s a big deal on restarts
Small track. maybe 1/8 mile, adult big pipe, BullyWhat class are you running ? Weight ? What track size you do you run the most ? What type of clutch ? Disc or Drum ?
Let me ask you a question, have you ever tested, on the stand, trying to determine where the clutch is stalling? Can anybody explain to me why that is different from putting a scale in front of your kart and doing the same thing?
Apparently, everybody seems to be afraid that they're going to burn up the clutch if they use the scale against a strong wall method of testing the clutch. I don't see where the difference is! We used the "on the stand" method all the time. There were times when we had to go from a 3 hole can to a pipe. We had to change the engagement RPM of the clutch. Never had any trouble whatsoever. I see no difference between doing it on the stand and doing it with a scale in front of the kart. What's that, you fear burning your fingers on the hot clutch? Then you're not doing it right!!
Your interpretation of a lot of things is a lot different than most of usI'm a little curious, momentum, can you give me your definition of what that means? I'm beginning to think that my interpretation of the word is little different from yours.
There are so many variables that go into your optimum setting . Things such as if your on and off the gas alot , total kart weight , track condition , is there alot of cautions at this track , and the list goes on and on . Adjusting it to where you like it , and it works best for you is the way to go . I like 3500 to 3650 , but thats not saying thats best for you .Small track. maybe 1/8 mile, adult big pipe, Bully
I suppose you could use the word "junk" to describe that old stuff. Most everything, karting related, from that age, could be called junk when/if compared to todays stuff.Al, maybe your not aware... these clutches don't slip like the junk you had when you raced many years ago. Stall checking them is a real good way to spit the flywheel off a clone if your not careful.