Box Stock

Clone side cover bolts are JUNK.

I believe he is asking for the thread pitch, not the torque sequence

Edit: Just saw your post cubic inches, we posted same time lol
 
Does anyone know if it would be ok to use threaded rod size 8mmx1.25 to make a stud kit for the sidecover? Since that is the stock thread pitch, it should be legal to use and would hold up just as good as a headstud kit as long as you choose quality threaded rod, and would be about the same thing as a head stud kit only a little cheaper and available more locally rather than ordering online.
 
Weddle Racing said:
Does anyone know if it would be ok to use threaded rod size 8mmx1.25 to make a stud kit for the sidecover? Since that is the stock thread pitch, it should be legal to use and would hold up just as good as a headstud kit as long as you choose quality threaded rod, and would be about the same thing as a head stud kit only a little cheaper and available more locally rather than ordering online.
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I was just wondering the same thing.
 

Weddle Racing said:
Does anyone know if it would be ok to use threaded rod size 8mmx1.25 to make a stud kit for the sidecover? Since that is the stock thread pitch, it should be legal to use and would hold up just as good as a headstud kit as long as you choose quality threaded rod, and would be about the same thing as a head stud kit only a little cheaper and available more locally rather than ordering online.
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Most commercially available metric threaded rod is DIN 975 Class 4.6 Low Carbon Steel with a tensile strength of around 60,000 psi, and a yield strength of about 35,000 psi.

The most common grade of commercial metric stud material is A193-B7 (4140) alloy steel with a tensile strength of around 125,000 psi and a yield strength of around 105,000 psi.

So you can see that standard 4140 steel studs will give you about twice the tensile strength,and three times the yield strength, over standard metric threaded rod.

While there are probably higher specialty grades of metric threaded rod available, with increased strength, it is unlikely you are going to find threaded rod lengths of A193- 4140 ... and if you do you are going to pay a PREMIUM price for it.

Commercially available metric threaded rod is probably going to be roughly comparable to stock side cover bolts in terms of tensile/yield strength ... maybe even less.




 
stoney said:



Most commercially available metric threaded rod is DIN 975 Class 4.6 Low Carbon Steel with a tensile strength of around 60,000 psi, and a yield strength of about 35,000 psi.

The most common grade of commercial metric stud material is A193-B7 (4140) alloy steel with a tensile strength of around 125,000 psi and a yield strength of around 105,00 psi.

So you can see that standard 4140 steel studs will give you about twice the tensile strength,and three times the yield strength, over standard metric threaded rod.

While there are probably higher specialty grades of threaded rod available, with increased strength, it is unlikely you are going to find threaded rod lengths of A193- 4140 ... and if you do you are going to pay a PREMIUM price for it.

Commercially available metric threaded rod is probably going to be roughly comparable to stock side cover bolts in terms of tensile/yield strength ... maybe even less.







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That's correct, I work in a structural steel shop and deal with this type of thing all the time. I happen to have a Fastenal down the street plus a really awesome hardware store close to work, so for the $1.40 each for the good grade 10.9 flange bolts it's a no brainer.

And to confirm, A36, a common mild steel, is about the same yield as that low carbon threaded rod, junk for fasteners.
 
stoney said:



Most commercially available metric threaded rod is DIN 975 Class 4.6 Low Carbon Steel with a tensile strength of around 60,000 psi, and a yield strength of about 35,000 psi.

The most common grade of commercial metric stud material is A193-B7 (4140) alloy steel with a tensile strength of around 125,000 psi and a yield strength of around 105,000 psi.

So you can see that standard 4140 steel studs will give you about twice the tensile strength,and three times the yield strength, over standard metric threaded rod.

While there are probably higher specialty grades of metric threaded rod available, with increased strength, it is unlikely you are going to find threaded rod lengths of A193- 4140 ... and if you do you are going to pay a PREMIUM price for it.

Commercially available metric threaded rod is probably going to be roughly comparable to stock side cover bolts in terms of tensile/yield strength ... maybe even less.




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Great info, thanks for posting that
 


Weddle Racing said:
Just to be clear Stoney, the sidecover stud kit is legal in AKRA now, correct?
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Correct ... any type fastener of original size and thread is legal for use on the sidecover .... bolts/studs/threaded/locknuts/star washers/etc..

Also, Just as a side note ... and for clarification, since the subject has been mentioned in this thread. The use of solid dowel pins is not AKRA legal for Box Stock classes.





 
stoney said:




Correct ... any type fastener of original size and thread is legal for use on the sidecover .... bolts/studs/threaded/locknuts/star washers/etc..

Also, Just as a side note ... and for clarification, since the subject has been mentioned in this thread. The use of solid dowel pins is not AKRA legal for Box Stock classes.





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Thank you sir
 
Why not just go to your local auto parts store, get some exhaust/ manifold studs. Nod you have your self a stud kit!
They are at very least grade8 studs.
 
i had both my engines back the side cover bolts out. but!!! we didn't overtighten them or thread lock them that time either. i am going to the stud kit as a "just in case"....
 
LOUMAR said:
I have never seen a GM car or SBC that wasn't assembled without Loctite. They use Loctite just about everywhere except conn. rods and oil pump. and use a form of Loctite silicone sealant on the head bolts to help sealing and keep them from coming loose.
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OK, I haven't put a SBC together in 15 years but in the 20+ years before that I built plenty of hi performance SBC, BBC, and even V6 Buick motors and can't remember ever using Loctite on any fasteners nor ever reading anywhere to do so. I used good quality fasteners (usually ARP) and a calibrated Snap On torque wrench. Maybe I'm the luckiest guy in the world but I never had a fastener failure on any of my motors. And these were far from stock motors.

I have nothing against Loctite but a proper fastener stretched the proper amount simply does not require it. The example of connecting rod and oil pump bolts would seem to support this. Loctite was invented in 1953 and didn't go to market until a few years later so you have to ask how did fasteners stay tight before 1953? I have nothing against Loctite but don't expect it to save your ass with crap fasteners or iffy applications.
 
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