Flathead

MO Predator Racer

MO Predator Racer

Member
I have an old flathead briggs that was given to me from a family member who used to race flatheads. It was built by TRE Tyler Racing Engines which I have looked up but it doesnt seem to be around any more. Does anybody know anything about the engines and what class they were made for or if there were a variety of flatheads they made? It is an alcohol motor with a billet rod and a cam with an alcohol carb but it wont run or anything right now.
 
MO Predator Racer said:
I have an old flathead briggs that was given to me from a family member who used to race flatheads. It was built by TRE Tyler Racing Engines which I have looked up but it doesnt seem to be around any more. Does anybody know anything about the engines and what class they were made for or if there were a variety of flatheads they made? It is an alcohol motor with a billet rod and a cam with an alcohol carb but it wont run or anything right now.
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Have you changed the diaphragm gasket in the carb... Methanol wears those out very quickly...
 
No sir, I have a extra carb but i have tried both and cant get it to run. I will look at doing that. I think that there is something wrong with the coil as well
 
It has spark ?
Like stated diagram gets stiff .
Give it a quick shot of either .
Classes were sorted mainly by restrictor plates . A little plate red or blue between carb and block if not it's likely an adult . Some variations mostly strength related . Tre was top notch .
 
it has spark but if I grab the spark plug wire it will shock me but some times if i do it it will shock me but it wont be a very bad shock then some days it will be a really bad shock. so i dont know if it is getting sufficent spark all the time. I put a tiny amount of fluid in the cylinder and it didnt evn act like it wanted to fire so i dont know. I am putting a starter nut on it soon because the original ratchet starter on it is messed up so I will get a new thing for the carb like you guys said.
 
MO Predator Racer said:
it has spark but if I grab the spark plug wire it will shock me but some times if i do it it will shock me but it wont be a very bad shock then some days it will be a really bad shock. so i dont know if it is getting sufficent spark all the time. I put a tiny amount of fluid in the cylinder and it didnt evn act like it wanted to fire so i dont know. I am putting a starter nut on it soon because the original ratchet starter on it is messed up so I will get a new thing for the carb like you guys said.
Click to expand...
Make sure the plug is indexed...
 
Oh ok. I usually use ohv motors so i am not used to flatheads. Is that something I need to do on all flathead since the plug is offest from the piston?
 
I would take some light grit sandpaper and clean the flywheel up and the feet of the coil up as well. Set the gap around .040. It’s hard to get a good spark rotating it over slowly. You get it zinging it will snap and light off. If it sat long 9 chances out of 10 your gonna need a diaphragm in the carb as well as a good carb cleaning in which you blow carb cleaner and some air through all the tubes and feed holes in it to get it working right.
 
Make sure that the plug is gapped (.025" or so) and indexed so that it is not hitting the intake valve.
If it has been hitting hard enough, it could have bent the intake valve, knocked a retainer off the valve, or lifted the head enough to cause a head gasket failure.
Using the right reach (thread length) and indexing plugs on these engines is critical.
Aside from that, clean the carb (and fuel tank) thoroughly, and yes, replace the fuel pump (ie diaphragm.)
If it's getting spark and fuel, it should at least try to run.

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
A lot of race engine builders do not use a flywheel key. Sometimes if the flywheel wasn’t lapped good to the crank, it will slip and your ignition timing will be off. If you do need to pull the flywheel and there is no key, don’t worry. You can use a regular Briggs key or an offset key. Before reassembly, use a tiny bit of valve lapping compound to lap the flywheel to the crank, wipe it all clean and assemble with the key of your choice. Finding the right ignition timing for optimal HP is really best done on a dyno but you can use about anything between stock and 35* on a “stock” race engine. If you use an offset key, make sure it’s installed to advance the time. Installing it backwards will retard the timing.
 
Oh ok! I am gonna mess with it and if i have to take off the flywheel than i will try that. I plan to put a starter nut onto it instead of the crappy ratchet starter that is on it now
 
This his how I index mine. See the black line on the spark plug toward the black arrow on that head bolt

1600879957150.jpg
 

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