I can't take credit for the idea. When I had my problem I got on Bobs and started to read posts about other guys having the problem and I found a post that described the process of using the stainless steel for a dowel pin. So that idea has to go to someone else but it was a good one.Great idea Don!
I do not know how to post pics on here. You are actually removing the two sidecover bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. The rest of the bolts stay in the block so that the sidecover is in proper position. You need to do a depth measurement to your satisfaction as to how deep you want the dowel pin to enter the block. I only went in around 1/4 inch. I do not have all the bit sizes in my mind right now but if ya want, I will get that to ya next time I get in the shop. Season has been over here for us and I haven't turned a wrench for three weeks. What a nice break!!!! I haven't missed it yet. I've been concentration on helping with the new 2014 rules instead of wrenching.Im lost on where your putting these dowels? Pics please.
Don't the clones have less stroke than flattys?Don't weld it!!! Buy the billet side cover red locktite the bolts (not studs) provided with the kit, use the o ring, rtv the supplied gasket after you clearance side play for the gasket and o ring. I run this on my big bore stroker clone with way more than 14:1 comp and never once had side cove bolts back out( the ARC crank will break first). Only thing that ever made the bolts back out of anything on my motor is turning the little pressure washer motor over 9000 rpm which nobody makes a cam that makes much power at many more than 9000rpm so there's no need to turn one that hard your just wasting your motor, these are tourqe motors not high rpm flatties. Plus turning too many rpms over 9000, how are you gonna keep oil in it.
How you do that when your still torquing them to specified ftlbs? Take out and start over until clocked? Im going studs and locknuts with red loctite this time. Not playing around anymore. Never had a prob until I added more compression and power.If they were safety wired and they came loose, then they were not properly safety wired. They should be clocked so the wire does not allow the bolt head to turn at all.
This is absolutely correct, properly wired the bolt cannot turn loose, just running wire from one to the next without doing it properly will just assure that the bolts don't fall out. Most times the bolts are overtightened the rib on the cover shears the gasket before the engine is even started, after running the gasket is gut through the rest of the way and the cover is now loose. Someone suggested using a cover without a rib, next said will be remove the rib, you better make certain the crank end play is at your desired spec. Or once again side cover failure.If they were safety wired and they came loose, then they were not properly safety wired. They should be clocked so the wire does not allow the bolt head to turn at all.