Here we go again...
- Thread starter 496 BB
- Start date
astrowrench
Member
Not threading the bolt into the block, only the dowel; for someone who knows how or would attempt to do this. Just don't want to see any of these newer guys getting into costly repairs that were caused by trying to rectify a problem that was most likely caused by another problem.but again........ this is my usual over thinking, overkill; There are many different ways to get a simple piece of steel out of a blind hole.
DynoDon
Moderator
You are correct about the dowel crushing against the block and giving a false feeling that it is tight. That is why a good depth measurement is need to do the job correctly. To determine how long to make the dowel I first measured the entire depth of the hole with the sidecover on with my dial calipers from the outside surface of the sidecover where the bolt will rest flush when tightened. That told me how deep everything is. I didn't want to make the dowel to long as to not have any threads left to tighten. The dowel has to be just a tad bit shorter than the sidecover depth itself and then approx. 1/4 inch more to go in the hole to be drilled. The one in the ( poor ) picture is just a little longer than it needs to be but it has held with out any locktite.
sCREamnClones
New member
Great post (article) Mikey....i've been trying too recall the 'Mil-Spec' for this but the brain-cells are lacking! This is the primary reason I DO NOT have side-cover issues anymore!!
A good bolt should strip out the aluminum threads in the block before it breaks off.
I used calipers as well to check my depth, I only drilled into the block about 1/8-3/16", I wanted most of the threads left in the block still, I think Dynodon took too many out.
And in my original post before the old bobs forum died, this was a FIX for my side cover that had already come loose and oblonged the dowel holes in the block. Basically a couple of the bolts holes get hollow dowels added, or you can do them all if you want.
I used calipers as well to check my depth, I only drilled into the block about 1/8-3/16", I wanted most of the threads left in the block still, I think Dynodon took too many out.
And in my original post before the old bobs forum died, this was a FIX for my side cover that had already come loose and oblonged the dowel holes in the block. Basically a couple of the bolts holes get hollow dowels added, or you can do them all if you want.
Manchester Speedway
New member
Solid dowel pins r a must and dont tighten as much your cutting the gasket by over tightening then it pushes out of the way and leaks. use a little short wrech or a 1/4 drive ratchet thats short and use red loctite and just snug them down I had the same problem and realized it was my fault. lol
Ralph
Ralph
Are you saying you do not torque them to the 204 in/lbs value then?
tms racing
New member
I went fastnel and got new bolts 10.9 and my cometic gasket and high heat loctite then torqued to 204 in/lbs , had no problems other than the track i run at dont like the cometic gaskets , i guss because they dont leak.
thanks jeff..
thanks jeff..
DynoDon
Moderator
I agree that I took to many threads but it was my first attempt and I took a picture of the bad one. The other side has more threads to catch. But, I have run the engine with no problems. First time rookie mistake!!!
dynodon? a rookie mistake? nah!! don't believe it.....more like he had a senior moment......i think it's more that he has so much knowledge in his brian that some of it leaked out before he could get some locktite and a new bolt in!! or was he tryin to use a dowel again? hhhhuuuummmmm........
Whats the part number for the cometic gaskets? What thickness?