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How to lower nose weight
- Thread starter Patkohns
- Start date
We've been struggling with about the exact same issues this year with our rival. High cross setup works great at longer tracks then we go to a short bullring and struggle. Reading this thread we might try dropping cross way down at shorter track. Be interesting to hear how you turn out if you try the same
JRC_Performance
Member
Your front stagger should be 1 1/2. Run 4 thick washers under the rf spindle along with the spacer and leave the rf alone after that. Adjust cross with your lf. Put your pills in the lr and rr in the out position. Run the rear cassettes in the back holes. Make sure both your L blocks are in the rear position as well.
Rr wheel should be 3/16” off frame and lr wheel off frame at 7/8”. Make sure the rear of the motor mount is close to the rear of the right side nerf bar mount on the chassis.
Shoot me some pics of the seat in the kart. We will get you squared away.
3092810266
JR Curtis
Rr wheel should be 3/16” off frame and lr wheel off frame at 7/8”. Make sure the rear of the motor mount is close to the rear of the right side nerf bar mount on the chassis.
Shoot me some pics of the seat in the kart. We will get you squared away.
3092810266
JR Curtis
racing promotor
Moderator
Your struggles has nothing to do with cross, or set up needing changes, It's Tires.
JRC_Performance
Member
Usually when going from track to track, you should be changing rear stagger and camber…. Tires is a must and have options at all tracks. Even if you race at the same track week in week out. Sometimes you just never know what could happen. Just being prepared if it were to happen is the best solution.
Running lower cross is an easy fix and May fix a push but I have yet to have any customer run a rival that is below 66 cross anywhere in the country. Myself I’m at 68 running tires that punch 40-44…..
If need be please give me a shout and we can get you or any ULTRAMAX customer on any of the production chassis squared away. Text is easiest as I work til 4pm central time but available anytime after that until 8pm central time
JR Curtis
3092810266
fastbraden11
Last of the originals
Here's what we do at different tracks,,we leave the cross alone!!!!lock your cross in and leave it,we do how ever chang the left side weight when we hit the banked tracks,we run 47 nose and no more than that,when changing stagger you have to go back and reset the cross numbers back to baseline where you started at,set caster at 7-10 or 11-8 just depending,cross usually around 64-65,we run 2.75 camber on rf everywhere we run,.5 on the lf...we run our seat as low as possible but still comfortable,we set the rake of the chassis as level.lf tire should come up off the ground on exit just a tad and you sir your driver will be rolling.
JRC_Performance
Member
On the Rival for nose weight I am clear down to 44.5……. I have never had an issue turning in…..
fastbraden11
Last of the originals
Some can get by with that
Any reasoning or explanation for that?
I see if I can get some pictures after work and take you up on that. We used numbers you had posted on here this weekend at long wide track and it worked great, very smooth. Going back to short track this coming weekend and would like to at least improve our drivability there. Thanks
racing promotor
Moderator
Once you have the chassis tuned if you have issues it's tires or tire related, we have 60 + left side and 70 + cross, can win on big track low grip, mid size good grip, small bull ring high grip day race or fri night less grip
Ok, I would say that isn't really leaving the cross alone. Even if you are resetting it back to stay at your baseline cross number you state you are adjusting the left side weight. The effect of cross is from its relationship to the left side, by changing left you are still changing the effect of cross even if number is the same, its relationship to left is now different.
Biggest take away I've gotten is everyone has there own ideas or ways of doing things that they make work for them. A lot of very helpful people on this page that will share ideas and advice, and a few that like to just throw out their own hard and fast rules without any explanation for why that should work, or maybe dont consider the different reactions a kart may have when driven by a 6 year old that weighs 40 lbs and is moving slower. Do this do that and someone like me ends up chasing my tail for a season making changes not really understanding the reasoning, and then not being able to understand why that once again doesn't work and what to do to correct it.
Its not even blending together, there's guys on here saying you need this number here or seat needs to be here and leave it dont ever touch that again make adjustments on this end. Guess what that doesn't always work. I could take your exact setup that you swear by and it could drive like a dump truck. then id say that and you'd go oh well then its tires, that setup is good your tires are trash. Im saying there is not right way except the way that works, which by the way could end up being a blend of things. I dont have 30 different sets of tires that I can haul to the track, we have a few sets that we prep with black sand and hit with orange prw before we go out and that that. People are too quick to just say out its bad tire prep work or wrong tires,
If the tires are wrong how would you know the chassis is tuned???
flattop1
Dawg 89
My experience with chassis adjustments is . Much like you stated.
Never having a light driver camber and seat were about the only thing that could change . We either made small tweaks or kitchen sink style changes .
4-5 sets of tires and a bunch of prep .
Off hand id say you need some goat pee and or krug for those situations when it just wont turn .
Im on board with the 1.5 frt stagger though and lower cross .
There is also driving lessons too be learned . Charging into the turn too low will cause issues .
Never having a light driver camber and seat were about the only thing that could change . We either made small tweaks or kitchen sink style changes .
4-5 sets of tires and a bunch of prep .
Off hand id say you need some goat pee and or krug for those situations when it just wont turn .
Im on board with the 1.5 frt stagger though and lower cross .
There is also driving lessons too be learned . Charging into the turn too low will cause issues .
racing promotor
Moderator
Why ask for help when you got it all figured out !!
JRC_Performance
Member
That’s why I give my personal phone number on this website along with me staying off the site for others chiming in who have no idea what they are talking about.
If it is me who you are referring to with not knowing what to adjust and when to adjust well…….I’ll just leave it at that……
JR Curtis
JRC Performance
Ultramax Racing Chassis
(309)281-0266
If it is me who you are referring to with not knowing what to adjust and when to adjust well…….I’ll just leave it at that……
JR Curtis
JRC Performance
Ultramax Racing Chassis
(309)281-0266
It's a tough call.
To develop an idea of what to do takes time, and trial and definitely error.
Everyone has their pet theory of how the chassis works the tires, which is the only connection to the track.
First, you need to decide the theory you want to embrace.
To check your theory, grab a troubleshooting guide like no goats. Test the suggested adjustments against your chosen chassis theory.
If they all make sense, you are likely on the right track.
If any adjustments do not make sense, need to work on your theory of operation.
This is a great mental exercise, best attempted while in the off season.
Meanwhile, take careful notes of the things you are trying, and why.
When it clicks, it will be much easier, but you will still makes mistakes. Analyzing will just be easier.
There simply is no one size fits all solutions.
Most base their suggestions on their experiences, maybe not considering all parameters of your situation.
If you are going to use someone else's setup, do the whole thing as suggested, no deviation. If you change one thing, you cannot directly compare your results to theirs.
Welcome to the jungle, and good luck.
You'll get there.