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Steve2022

Steve2022

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I’ve been racing since June this year and enjoying myself. Got a late start at 59 but something I’ve wanted togive a try and wish I’d started years ago.. spent a lot of years on my harley street glide…… anyway the outdoor season is over here in south Kentucky and they have moved indoor now (just when I was getting a decent understanding of tracks in my area).. I had figured out different stagger, air pressures and tires for each track etc and now I’m back where I started having to move indoor on flatter tracks etc.. questions are do indoor tracks tend to have more or less bite than outdoor tracks.. Will I need more stagger etc. the kart was scaled and setup for outdoors and I have no idea what to expect going indoor.. i have 5 sets of good tires Burris and Vegas and getting another set of Burris this week. By the way I’m running stock appearing with a strong 72 mm tillotson stroker.
Im open to suggestions and ideas guys. I’m heading to my first indoor race in western Kentucky (Russellville Ky) about 3 hrs away I
am heading there Friday afternoon to practice that night and then races Saturday.
 
Indoor tracks are normally small with tight radius corners, stagger is a necessity, and more left side % as well, tires as always very important, good idea to bring a spare body just in case, indoors tends to get a little crashy...😉
 
Hey Steve, what chassis are you on? I'm about 45 min from Russellville. What tracks have you been running outdoors? You will need about 1 1/2- 1 3/4 rear stagger for there.
 
I am in western KY too, same town as Mr. Dougherty. Surface-wise all 3 of the western KY tracks are very similar. smooth, hard and decent bite. You see a lot of guys knocking tire duros down but we have run well on tires punching about 50 when you get to the track, then we wipe with bite. Tires last through the main and we get away with a little more air pressure for roll speed.
As others have said, stagger is king and yeah put your junkiest body on.
 
Had a guy run supers last time, he was on an 11 63 caster and camber would be more dependent on the chassis your on. Most of the time I tell guys start on 10/12 then 1/2 LF and - 2 1/4 in the RF. But that's also going to depend on all the other numbers you have in the kart. Plus the amount of bite your tires are making.
 
Dougherty#39 said:
Hey Steve, what chassis are you on? I'm about 45 min from Russellville. What tracks have you been running outdoors? You will need about 1 1/2- 1 3/4 rear stagger for there.
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Running an older trick chassis.. someone before put an adjustable front end on it and did a real nice job. I’ve raced at spring water in Monticello , j&m in Columbia, clay city parkway, and I’ve been to godspeed in Tn. Spring water is home track for me (About 25 minutes from my home) 1/5 mile with long straights and 2 u turns. Good red clay track well maintaine. about all the tracks use 1 1/2 front and rear. There was a track open in mount vernon Ky for awhile and it was pretty flat ran a little more stagger.
 
Dougherty#39 said:
Had a guy run supers last time, he was on an 11 63 caster and camber would be more dependent on the chassis your on. Most of the time I tell guys start on 10/12 then 1/2 LF and - 2 1/4 in the RF. But that's also going to depend on all the other numbers you have in the kart. Plus the amount of bite your tires are making.
Click to expand...
 
My kart was scaled ad setup after I got it.. unfortunately I don’t have tools to check caster and camber I’ve had to just run it where it is. That is something that I’ve not worked with or should I say an area I’ve not learned. I’ve read on here about someoe/others on this forum using postal scales to scale a kart. I ordered 4 last night and I’m getting material tomorrow to build a stand. Don’t have the big money to buy scales and stands on line.
 
mike97760 said:
I am in western KY too, same town as Mr. Dougherty. Surface-wise all 3 of the western KY tracks are very similar. smooth, hard and decent bite. You see a lot of guys knocking tire duros down but we have run well on tires punching about 50 when you get to the track, then we wipe with bite. Tires last through the main and we get away with a little more air pressure for roll speed.
As others have said, stagger is king and yeah put your junkiest body on.
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I’ve had a stick welder for years but of course couldn’t weld aluminum. I bought a mig welder and have built what I think is a pretty nice bumper that fits inside nose real nice. First it seemed to stiffen the chassis to much. Reworked it and all is good now. Hopefully that will help some
 
1 1/2 front stagger, too. Gearing for a modified motor like yours would ideally be with a 10 tooth driver and like a 58 or an 11-62 ish gearing. These tracks get faster as the event goes on. We ran SBO at Sturgis last weekend with a jackshaft to get us near 9000 rpm and between each run we dropped 2 axle teeth between and hit the same rpms.
 
mike97760 said:
1 1/2 front stagger, too. Gearing for a modified motor like yours would ideally be with a 10 tooth driver and like a 58 or an 11-62 ish gearing. These tracks get faster as the event goes on. We ran SBO at Sturgis last weekend with a jackshaft to get us near 9000 rpm and between each run we dropped 2 axle teeth between and hit the same rpms.
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I’ll go with the 11/62ish.. I’ve been looking around and haven’t been able to come across a 10 driver
 
Guys I appreciate all the info and help. One thing I’ve realized is ppl in karting are helpful. Of course some in my own class are less fourth coming with info (or correct info) sometimes but understandably so. Lol
 
mike97760 said:
1 1/2 front stagger, too. Gearing for a modified motor like yours would ideally be with a 10 tooth driver and like a 58 or an 11-62 ish gearing. These tracks get faster as the event goes on. We ran SBO at Sturgis last weekend with a jackshaft to get us near 9000 rpm and between each run we dropped 2 axle teeth between and hit the same rpms.
Click to expand...
I’ve turned this engine 9100 and 9300 rpm several times and so far so good. Pretty proud of my first engine. The one I paid to have built lasted 3 weekends and the bolts backed out of side cover and drained the oil and locked up last lap when I was running second. Built this one myself and the bolts on the side cover haven’t loosened up any.
 
Steve2022 said:
I’ve turned this engine 9100 and 9300 rpm several times and so far so good. Pretty proud of my first engine. The one I paid to have built lasted 3 weekends and the bolts backed out of side cover and drained the oil and locked up last lap when I was running second. Built this one myself and the bolts on the side cover haven’t loosened up any.
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Put star locks on with a little loctite on the sidecover bolts and torque to about 180 in lbs...I've never had one come loose since handling them this way...😉
 
I was just looking at the track I’m going to be at in Russellville and realized that the weight is 365 pound for stock appearance. my weight class here is 350 pound and actually weigh approximately 355. I’m gonna have to add 10 pounds which is no problem. Will this be enough to add the cross weight mentioned in these messages?
 
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