Lo206 break in

Briggs oil has a few additives, such as anti corrosives, that other kart oils don't. I don't have my info handy but there are at least two other qualities of the oil that makes it, at least to me, preferable over others. I can tell you that since the oil was introduced none of my customers have had an oil related issue. I also use the oil for break-in. I'll try to dig up my notes on the oil but since using it I just don't even give it a second thought. Good stuff!
 
The only oil issue any of my customers have had is NOT putting any in the engine. How long do you run oil in an engine to get these results?
 
Not sure what results you are referring to but I can tell you I have no issues running the Briggs oil for longer intervals than other kart oils. Before the oil was actually on the market we ran a 4 hr. enduro without changing the oil, finishing second due to an early crash. After 4 hrs. there was not a noticeable loss of oil volume. I rarely change the oil "every time out". Normal practice is to run one or two practice days and a race day. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not saying this is the greatest oil in the world for 4 cycle karting, just saying I'm very happy using it. I sell it but honestly it's not very profitable !!
 
Amsoil is among a few manufacturers that really spent the time and R&D cost to get their lubricants exactly right for specific uses. Their formulation chemistry and quality of the ingredients that they use are very high order. These splash lubricated assemblies really place a thermal and mechanical burden on the lubricating oil. I have had occasion to look at some failures in 4 cycle kart engines that were friction / thermal based in a full blown lab. while I have not seen a lot of different oils that were used, I did see enough to become a believer in several, with Amzoil at the top of that list. Redline was another.
 
Wouldn't you think that cylinder wall finish, roundness, straightness and ring pressure would be more important for good ring sealing than what type of oil is used during the break in period? So back to break in..........does this mean you want the rings and cylinder wall finish to wear themselves in so the rings will create a condition so there is no cylinder pressure leakage into crankcase and no oil to pass up into the combustion chamber? If so then what factor does the oil play for this function?

Steve
 
Rings seal to a microscopic film of oil.....limiting the amount of oil that can contaminate the combustion process would be desirable. Using the proper oil, in the proper way is as necessary as the points Steve made in the above post. IMHO
 
JPM said:
Rings seal to a microscopic film of oil.....
Click to expand...

1) So for best ring seal during break in is it better to be operating in a boundary lubrication regime condition or a full fluid film lubrication condition?

2) Do you think the viscosity and chemistry of the oil can have a factor in the above 2 operating conditions?

3) Is it the wearing down of the asperities during the break in period what will create the best ring seal?

4) For the lowest friction and tightest ring sealing what conditions need be present to create this?

5) Do you think that zero friction and zero ring leakage would result in the maximum HP?


Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
 
curtracer said:
Once again i followed the Briggs literature to a tee .what have i done to my motor ?
Click to expand...

Your fine...follow Briggs literature and keep clean oil in your LO206 and go have fun racing. By design the operating conditions are very mild on this engine program.
I'm pretty sure our Briggs powered lawn mower and snow blower are abused more and we do not have failures with them and they are over 10 years old and no I don't change the oil as often as I should, maybe once a year.....lol.

Steve
 
I'm not an oil engineer so take it for what it's worth but you may want to check the Thor and other "Kart Racing Oil " web sites for technical information.
You may also want to check the Amsoil website.
I can find no technical information about Thor oil or other "Kart racing oils"
http://www.thoroil.com/thoroil.html
On the other had the Amsoil web site does include some technical information.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...tton-synthetic-4t-racing-oil/?code=GBS2960-EA
Of particular interest is Amsoils corrosion and Anti foam inhibitors. Do other "kart Racing Oils" have this?
The TBN (total base number) for Amsoil is 7 but i have no idea what it is for any other "Kart Racing Oil"
Amsoil is not a PAG oil. What are other " kart racing oil made from?


https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...tton-synthetic-4t-racing-oil/?code=GBS2960-EA
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=what+is+a+pag+oil
http://www.behrhellaservice.com/behrhellaservice-com-en/assets/media/TM13_Oelflyer_GB_J00583.pdf

The most important thing you need to remember about oil is to put it in the engine.
 
The make up of the rings being used plays a part in the cylinder wall finish. Using a 220 grit or 320 grit stone followed by honing brush to create a plateau type finish was what worked best for me when doing my own work. This process limited the aggressive asperities left on the cylinder wall from the honing process. Other than lapping the all rings, both sides, de-burring the ends and the inner sharp edges and a quick over with a bit of scotch brite noting more done with the rings.....for the overhead valve engine. Did have use of an acceleration dyno for a short time...seemed to be a more controlled way to "break in" the engine. What finish comes from the factory?
 
Here is an excellent article that was published by MIT. It does a very good job of explaining surface finish effect on ring pack sealing.

http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/32371

I realize that we are Karters and they are just MIT, but its worth reading anyway. The abstract document DPF file is free and available at the above link.
 
What I want in an oil: 1. LUBRICATION, 2. power, 3. economy. Actually anything after No.1 is a plus, nice to have but only a fool would sacrifice No.1 to get those.
 
TBN only matters if you are going to leave the oil in the engine and use oil analysis to determine when you need to change it. This is common practice for semi trucks and heavy equipment. I don't know of anyone that uses it or tracks it on a gasoline engine.
 
Does anyone know if the Amsoil break-in oil is zinc rich? Zinc is becoming scarce in any formulations due to EPA Nazi intervention. I believe that most automotive use oils are pretty much zinc free already. For as well as the monomer and polymer chemistry do with scuff and gall protection in the long run, there is still no synthetic that seems to protect as well against initial run in damage. I bet that its double true for a splash lubricated assembly like we have here. Good old zinc. I am going to miss good old Zn. Discovered in the 1700's and still timeless for its many uses. And as usual, some dashiki wearin, open toe shoe havin hippy is going to screw me right out of ever using it.
 
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