LO206 carburetor settings

Have re-read these posts. My prior question was "isn't enough fuel in lo206 bowl enough fuel", meaning as long as enough fuel in bowl how could it change air/fuel ratio (paraphrased) Response was this: You need to understand that fuel gets from the bowl to the venturi by a difference in air pressure. The closer the fuel is to the venturi the less effort is required to deliver the fuel. Think of a drinking straw it takes less effort to push the liquid into your mouth when the container is full than it does when the level is low.

I appreciate the response Kart43. I am still trying to figure out if I am missing power by failing to adjust at all on carb, whether clip or floats. First, as a follow up to the response, while I understand straw explanation, isn't there a jet size that will LIMIT the amount of fuel that can get to the air for mixing purposes? Won't a "gate" or jet size or "opening" somewhere LIMIT the amount of fuel regardless if bowl is 80% full of fuel versus 50% full of fuel. In your example, isn't the size of the straw the restricting and limiting factor? Not disagreeing, just seeking better understanding.

secondly, Assuming more bowl fuel means "richer" air/fuel mixture........ what are the basic steps one uses are the track on practice/race day to decide whether to move clip or adjust float? Sound, black smoke on take off, study plug, etc? Assuming here I am at track...... what do I look at to make decision on adjustments rather than JUST LEAVE standard settings as we have done thus far? We would not be using anything fancy other than calipers for measuring float height.

Thank you Kart43 or anyone that can assist.
 
The first thing to consider is the weight of the fuel the more fuel there is in the bowl the heavier it will be. The extra weight will cause the fuel to pass through the jet at higher pressure. It is the weight of the fuel and air pressure above it that delivers it to the venturi or low pressure area. Imagine a rain barrel with a hose at the bottom. The full barrel will provide more pressure than the 1/4 full. You use all things you mentioned to adjust your carb. We find when it is set, level and clip seldom do we move it except to experiment usually in desperation, and usually go back to original settings.
 
My 2 cents is better leave the float level alone!
If you are very adapt at doing the carb work you maybe could fine tune with it. You had better be an excellent tuner with all the needed tools.
Even then you have possibility of an error especially at the track.
 
My 2 cents is better leave the float level alone!
If you are very adapt at doing the carb work you maybe could fine tune with it. You had better be an excellent tuner with all the needed tools.
Even then you have possibility of an error especially at the track.

I'm no super star tuner and I run a non standard float height on my sons lo206 Sr and we've had a lot of success. All you need is a flat blade screwdriver and a way to measure the float height, pretty standard tools IMHO. Our first year running the lo206 was all about experimenting. Might just be me but trying to out tune the local kart teams / Dads is half the fun, I love catching people trying to sneak a peek at the Kart.
 
Glad you're having success.
Question though; are you adjusting it at the track between sessions?
I'm not discrediting the validity but the use as a tuning tool at the track.
 
Glad you're having success.
Question though; are you adjusting it at the track between sessions?
I'm not discrediting the validity but the use as a tuning tool at the track.

It may have been my inexperience but during our first year in a lo206 I was changing float heights and pin heights on race day. We never had any problems. I eventually found a sweet spot and haven't had to change it since but I never would have found our setup without all the experimentation. Only adjustment I make to the carb at the track now is the idle speed, clean the carb and check the float heights after the weekend and done. I have found that getting my gearing and chassis setup correctly out weights anything I can do with the carb.
 
If you believe that the idle jet ONLY affects idle try this.
Take the float bowl off and put a small rubber cap over the end of the idle jet.
Make a few laps and see how it works.
 
Thanks for responses and input. I guess I should just start tinkering. I am capable of messin with carb etc but with limited races throughout the year (part time), the "experimentation" method may take a bit.

Let's say RICH is best for take off and lower rpm and LEANER is better for top end. What typically is best way to accomplish best of both worlds.
 
Let's say RICH is best for take off and lower rpm and LEANER is better for top end. What typically is best way to accomplish best of both worlds.

That's tricky with the this carb design. It inherently is lean on bottom and rich on top by design. You can shift the fuel curve some by adjusting the float height settings from in the ranges from .900" to .750" or anything in between.

Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
 
Ok not been getting an answer on general forum on this.

At a track like Indy aka battle at the Brickyard. How would I tune carb for mostly long straights. Already having proper gear and handling. Just looking for that little extra to maximize top end.
 
Ok not been getting an answer on general forum on this.

At a track like Indy aka battle at the Brickyard. How would I tune carb for mostly long straights. Already having proper gear and handling. Just looking for that little extra to maximize top end.
The exhaust gas temperature (EGT) is the absolute very best way to get maximum power out of your engine. With maximum EGT, you're getting maximum power.

Too much trouble right?
 
Ok not been getting an answer on general forum on this.

At a track like Indy aka battle at the Brickyard. How would I tune carb for mostly long straights. Already having proper gear and handling. Just looking for that little extra to maximize top end.

You have a lot of carb adjustments to play with.............needle C-clip settings, float height and drop settings, air bleed screw position, slight jet size holes, E tube rotation position, carb angle on intake manifold, air pattern over air filter, slide height position............etc ( and there's more :) ) . Also find you a good engine tuner with a state of the art engine dyno with accurate data acquisition systems and get to work!!!!!!!!! and as Al says install the exh temp in your test only header and generate some more useful data. The more tech data you generate the smarter you will become on proper tuning and a faster kart racer!
Best to be a small % gain racer and remember when doing track R & D stay off the rev limiter!

Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
 
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Hi Steve I have a ? about slide height. If a 441 briggs gauge doesn't go all the way in but holds the slide up when released what is your take.
Thank you
Archie
 
On my tester 4% is normally as good as it gets. You will always have some ring leakage.
Try this: Stand the cylinder straight up and squirt some oil in through the spark plug hole.
Let the engine sit for a few to give the oil time to flow around the rings and then retest.
You need to do this fairly quickly as the air pressure will eventually force the oil past the rings.
Remember that the majority of the air will leak out the biggest hole first.
You could repair a leaking exhaust valve and then retest only to find that now the intake valve is now showing leakage that it didn't show before.
Another example would be that you could repair leakage at both valves and now find you have excessive leakage past the piston rings.
 
Hi Steve I have a ? about slide height. If a 441 briggs gauge doesn't go all the way in but holds the slide up when released what is your take.
Thank you
Archie
I am trying to grasp what you are asking. You are using a Briggs guage to measure slide height. The guage if it is an approved tool is NO GO period, it does not pass under the slide in any way possible. It does not go partially under it does not hold the slide up, it does not get pushed under, it does not slip in and have to be pulled out. It is NO GO period, I assume the rule in your class is .440 you have a .441 if it goes you are out of spec period and done.
 
To add to my previous statement. The gain to the engine by pushing the .001 to i won't state the upper number is zero you will not see it or feel, or measure it on the dyno. When you get DQ'd for .002" slide height infraction, that is not what put you on the podium. So don't bother save the embarrassment for something that deserves it.
 
The exhaust gas temperature (EGT) is the absolute very best way to get maximum power out of your engine. With maximum EGT, you're getting maximum power.

I don't believe that is so. “Best Economy" occurs at peak EGT. Best power occurs approximately 100 to 200 degrees Rich of Peak.
 
Pull the slide all the open with the throttle cable. GENTLY try to get the gauge to slide into the carb. If it goes in you are ILLEGAL.
I sell a gauge that is .005" smaller on one end and the legal dimension on the other end. If you set the slide opening so that the small end just goes in the other end won't go in. Personally i would not flirt with trying to get it any closer.
 
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