Track Tac

No oil

TritonJrBluePlate said:
It had Thor in in. It got one hot lap in under green.
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Thor is a good oil. Thor light is a very thin oil. So proceed with caution.
I would check the rod, before I put it on a dyno. It really pisses the dyno operator when an engine blows up on the dyno. And then you tell them you ran it without oil. And beside that, you just lost an engine that you probably paid a lot for.
 
Check out project farm on YouTube. He does these kinds of test and I without a doubt am and for ever will be a big fan of MOTORKOTE!!! Yes it's 30 something dollars a quart but it is alot less expensive than a rebuild. With my fresh rebuild I broke it in with cheap thin auto zone oil for a few hours going through about 4 or so quarts. Then I removed oil and side cover so I could completely rinse the beak in oil out and recheck my work. Then since I don't have readily available kart oil I just used 4ounces of oil in one quart of 4cycle Lucas semi synthetic oil. Right now I am 5 hours and 3 oil changes into this rebuild and I am still noticing steady increases in power and top speeds. I'll continue this until I notice a loss and then I'll lap valves and see where I am after that.
 
Kj26 said:
One of the bigger asphalt races we ran years back, daughter was fast, put it on pole, needed to stretch the LR in a hurry. Put about 65# of air in it while on the kart. Feature started she was horrible and highly upset. 2 hour ride home, no words spoken. I just couldn't figure out what happened. at 3am still couldn't sleep, I'm like idiot I never took the air outta the tire. Walked out to the trailer to check the tire & yup I messed up bigtime. I even woke her up to tell her I was sorry.
Now they always do their own air pressure at the track lol.
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I left 55lb in the RR one time on dirt, nephew was upset, told him now ya know what loose is.
 
Run it without oil (most all of us have done it at one point or another) with a clone, you will best serve yourself by rebuilding the entire bottom end with all new parts, they are not all that expensive, if you can find someone to hone/bore the cylinder and give you the new piston/ring size, putting one back together isn't too overly difficult, get a 1/4" drive torque wrench, ring compressor and the necessary size sockets and you're ready to roll....👍
 
jsf74 said:
The easiest and full proof method to prevent this from EVER happening again is every time you drain the oil pull the spark plug boot off. Make it a habit and its cheap insurance. Saved my butt a time or two.
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Back in our racing days we would strictly push that if oil is not going back in immediately, there must be a bright orange piece of tape on the plug wire that clearly says "No Oil". Seemed to work pretty good
 
When I change my oil I remove the valve cover and do a check on the rocker adjustments , so I pour my oil over the top end pretty well and I know it has oil in it . Just make sure there isn't dust flying around . Filling through the fill tube has always been a last resort for me , have had them break and put me out of a race because of not having a spare .
 
GClary said:
When I change my oil I remove the valve cover and do a check on the rocker adjustments , so I pour my oil over the top end pretty well and I know it has oil in it . Just make sure there isn't dust flying around . Filling through the fill tube has always been a last resort for me , have had them break and put me out of a race because of not having a spare .
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Who has time for all that at the track ?
 
One of my customers brought me a flathead that his son had failed to put oil in. The rod seized on the crank and broke the rod which cracked the block. No other damage was done so I cleaned the aluminum off the crank with muriatic acid. I ground out the crack in the block and filled it with JB Weld. The young mans name is Briar so I engraved "Briar Patch" above the repair. The engine was rebuilt several times after that and I don't think he ever forgot the oil again. -- Chuck
 
Back in the day when i run flatheads I took a lap at a big race at the Kingdom and i was able to run good and even move several [laces into the top ten till it blew, and to make it worst it wasn't my engine since mine has blown for another reason in qualifying. It wasn't my fault since the person who insisting on letting me borrow the engine let someone else take care of the oil and that person assured me it had fresh oil on it.
 
Had a guy come to me in the pits saying "It sure is slow in left hand turns" I looked and all the axle collars were on the left. The only thing holding the axle in place on left turns was the brake disk. Took longer to fix than you'd think with all the laughing.
 
After races I always flush fuel, change oil, clean and inspect engines in my shop and they sit there ready to race. I had found a 3 engine motor rack and installed in my trailer then bolted engines to it. The rack motor plates were installed at an angle and about the time i mounted the last motor I see oil pouring out of all three. I drained all 3 of them.....then forgot I did. Weeks later I put one on a kart and warmed it up a bit and the kart didnt make it off the grid.
 
Encyclopedia Britannica doesn't stand a chance against Google !

Hot oil splashes when pouring water on it.

This is because in addition to being immiscible, water and oil have different boiling points, as well as different densities. The boiling point of water is 100 C, while that of oil is around 200 C, depending on the type of oil. The density of water is 1000 kg / m³, while that of oil is about 850 kg / m³.

Due to the higher density, the water occupies the lower part.

When the temperature of the oil is above 100 C, when the water hits and penetrate the oil, the water will evaporate spontaneously. This causes bubbles to form under the oil, causing it to spontaneously blow off.
 
bomber315 said:
I didn't think the oil is going to collect anymore moisture than an empty block.
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An empty block doesn't have anything g to collect moisture in. Yes the empty block will sweat. I'm sure you have seen it. If not try this. Take a small butane torch and put flame directly on any cast aluminum part of your engine. You will see it quickly sweat then dry out. With no oil in block seems the moisture would evaporate about the same as it would appear. Then if oil is being held in block it would keep it trapped from being able to evaporate since oil is lighter than water it would go to bottom in severe case. Or at least suspend the water which it's designed to do until it is full of course. Possibly not a kart oil design but I am 99% sure auto oil claims this. Also does the same with dirt and soot. Now the moisture will burn off if oil is brought to correct temp for x amount of time. I wish I could remember what article I read this in. Again that's why the oil change is x amount of time or x amount of miles. Which ever comes first.
 
Most karting oils are PAG based compressor oils which are hygroscopic (in other words - they draw moisture.) They were intended to be used in a closed environment.
Few oils used in karting are PAO based. PAO based oils will not draw moisture out of the air -- that's why they're used in an open environment, lawn mower, tillers, cars and trucks.
The two base stocks WILL NOT mix and will result in catastrophic damage if not properly flushed out.

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I store our motors in the house between races empty. The Flathead gets used once or twice a year, no rust issues.
 
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