Old 5 hp Briggs & Stratton

If I don’t plan on running alcohol is it easier to get a new carb? I read somewhere that they drill out holes in the carb somewhere along with the different jetting. Anyone know if that is true?
If you want the best performance out of your flathead I would suggest running methanol. Also check with your local track because most tracks I know of require you to run methanol in the flathead class.
 
If you want the best performance out of your flathead I would suggest running methanol. Also check with your local track because most tracks I know of require you to run methanol in the flathead class.
I’m a few hours away from the closest track so just trying to get squared away with a running, driving kart first but did want it track ready. It makes sense to keep it if they only allow methanol. I was worried about the seasonal rebuilds with running it. I found another engine already setup that I may pick up and keep methanol and then make one of these pump gas. I’m still trying to figure out the best course of action lol
 
There are (3) different size crankcase gaskets.
The thin white .005" gasket is used as a shim.
The other two measure .009" and .015"
That gasket not only helps seal the sump cover to block, but creates proper end play for the crankshaft to move side to side just a little bit (literally). Generally you don't need to use a shim, just a single gasket.

If you send me a pm I'd be happy to ship you a couple new gaskets/shims free of charge.
 

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^ Sent a PM answering your question saying pretty much the same thing.
No crank shims allowed in WKA/IKF stock class racing -- but you can stack multiple gaskets (3 max.) to achieve your desired endplay.

For backyard racing, keep it on gas (unless you have a good source for methanol locally.)
Change the jet and the engine will not know the difference (for what you are doing with it.)
 
Are any of these good? One has some piting, one looks like something was on top of the piston and banged it up, and one has a lot of carbon? Or was it over heated?
 

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All are illegal for stock class racing (due to the scratches in the combustion chamber.) That can likely be remedied with some strategic glassbeading (at least the center picture.) The black that you see is carbon = very normal for an engine that has been run. Picture #1 appears to be a 4HP head (higher compression, lower cc chamber.)
Clean up the gasket sealing surface on a piece of glass (or countertop) and some fine sandpaper and you'll be good to go in the backyard.
 
All are illegal for stock class racing (due to the scratches in the combustion chamber.) That can likely be remedied with some strategic glassbeading (at least the center picture.) The black that you see is carbon = very normal for an engine that has been run. Picture #1 appears to be a 4HP head (higher compression, lower cc chamber.)
Clean up the gasket sealing surface on a piece of glass (or countertop) and some fine sandpaper and you'll be good to go in the backyard.
Thank you!
 
Is there a reason to save old head gaskets?
 

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What about breather/valve spring plates? I see most racing motors have them, what’s the purpose?
No, most race engines don't have them. They are only used in limited modifieds and opens so they can breathe better without the baffle in place. All stock classes must run the stock breather assembly. You may run an extension to your catch tank though.

On the had gaskets, make sure they're not simply surface rust -- You should be able to tell if they've been torqued down by the compression around the sealing surface and bolt holes. You typically don't re-use those style head gaskets. If you're just running in the backyard, hi-temp gasket sealer will help, if competitive racing, no sealant can be used on the gaskets.
 
No, most race engines don't have them. They are only used in limited modifieds and opens so they can breathe better without the baffle in place. All stock classes must run the stock breather assembly. You may run an extension to your catch tank though.

On the had gaskets, make sure they're not simply surface rust -- You should be able to tell if they've been torqued down by the compression around the sealing surface and bolt holes. You typically don't re-use those style head gaskets. If you're just running in the backyard, hi-temp gasket sealer will help, if competitive racing, no sealant can be used on the gaskets.
Well that’s good to know, so clearly most of what I have been looking at are either limited modified or opens so I guess I will have to take a refresher as to what those rules/specs are. I’ll have to re-check them, they gave me 3 stacks and one was the rusted ones so I assumed they were used but I guess you should never assume. I appreciate all the help!
 
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