Old 5 hp Briggs & Stratton

vtdad, I replied to your DM. Yes, the parts could well be worth it considering what new parts bring today (new fuel tanks are $100 alone.)
Does it have a restrictor plate in the engine (between the carburetor and intake port) currently?
Look for ID stampings or engravings on the block -- If it was built by Ward Martin, he would be your next contact to find out more about the internals.
The lack of a builder decal tells me that it was most likely rebuilt by the racer himself, or another backyard builder. Most engine builders are pretty proud of their work and put decals on everything before sending it out the door.
It looks like they signed it but nothing other than that. Tank is spotless inside, I did try searching the shop online but only found an old Facebook page. I’m not sure about restrictor plate, I will check
 

Attachments

  • 898E569F-9ED7-4A79-BF2C-BC22EEB4AB75.jpeg
    898E569F-9ED7-4A79-BF2C-BC22EEB4AB75.jpeg
    60.7 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
It looks like they signed it but nothing other than that. Tank is spotless inside, I did try searching the shop online but only found an old Facebook page. I’m not sure about restrictor plate, I will check
Likely an older Haulin' Buggy (Bubba Martin) engine. I think Kevin @ KSR worked for them for a while -- might be one that he built. Look up KSR in Columbia, SC I think he is. Quick Google search and you'll find out for sure. Kevin's a good guy - maybe he can tell you what you've got there.
 
Likely an older Haulin' Buggy (Bubba Martin) engine. I think Kevin @ KSR worked for them for a while -- might be one that he built. Look up KSR in Columbia, SC I think he is. Quick Google search and you'll find out for sure. Kevin's a good guy - maybe he can tell you what you've got there.
Thank you!
 
Are these correct for all of the Briggs Flathead blocks?
 

Attachments

  • A2AD379C-8230-4942-9DCE-313272696509.png
    A2AD379C-8230-4942-9DCE-313272696509.png
    108.7 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
Are these correct for all of the Briggs Flathead blocks?
That'll serve as a generality. It's not exactly what I use, but most are close. Big difference in cylinder head torque will be which gasket you use. If you use the soft graphite oem Briggs head gasket, you'll crush it @ 150 inch pounds, but the Cometic MLS gasket torques best @ 150 in#. I wouldn't go over 130 in# with the Briggs graphite head gasket. Then again, I don't even like to use those. The MLS gaskets require a finer RA finish and perfectly flat surfaces (ie no peak decking, warping of the head, exhaust side depression, etc.)
 
I have one of the ones in the bag and then I have a bunch of the others. Are either of these the ones you are talking about? I’m assuming the one in the bag is the soft graphite one?
 

Attachments

  • 0507C016-6DAE-4C80-B084-28462556F3A3.jpeg
    0507C016-6DAE-4C80-B084-28462556F3A3.jpeg
    124.6 KB · Views: 10
  • B6215773-15FF-4F64-811D-62F9C89766A4.jpeg
    B6215773-15FF-4F64-811D-62F9C89766A4.jpeg
    108.6 KB · Views: 10
The right side pic is OE graphite.
Left side appears to be an aftermarket Felpro.
OE style like the couple I sent you are more inexperienced user friendly.
 
The right side pic is OE graphite.
Left side appears to be an aftermarket Felpro.
OE style like the couple I sent you are more inexperienced user friendly.
Left is the one you sent, right is one of the ones that came with the spare parts. I’ll start with the one you sent and hopefully won’t need the other for awhile
 
If you can easily bend/smash it in your hand, it's the oem graphite gasket. They feel almost oily and smear with a bite of pressure under your finger.
There are many other types of gaskets available. The old asbestos metal clad gaskets are very forgiving. They will not bend much at all and have a hard steel finish. That picture on the right "may" be that one.
 
Back
Top