Old 5 hp Briggs & Stratton
- Thread starter vtdad28
- Start date
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
^ That would be some excellent reading. I would suggest a tech manual with the flathead rules as well (IF you intend to build them as legal race engines.)
Those breather plates are often used for backyard applications, mini-bikes, etc. They are not common in kart racing except for the classes I mentioned.
Those breather plates are often used for backyard applications, mini-bikes, etc. They are not common in kart racing except for the classes I mentioned.
Thank you!
Where would I find a tech manual?
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
Can be ordered from larger kart shops or directly from the sanctioning bodies themselves. WKA, IKF, AKRA, NKA - whoever your local track follows.
And if I search the cam numbers I should be able to find the lift it has, correct? They also gave me 2 spare ones so I can look into those as well
Thank you!!!
Flatlives
Member
Basically...any 5hp block with the braces are the ones worth playing with.
No brace=First generation 5hp block (quickest way to tell and the least desired).
Later I/C 5hp had the braces and a governor hole.
All 4 generations of raptor had braces and no governor.
First 3 generations of raptor came fully dressed.
The latest R4 raptor was only available as a bare block, (No oil drain on the port side of block, only has 1 drain hole opposing side, also the quickest way to tell).
R4 has more material (thicker) around the lifter bore area for added durability. I still recommend welding exhaust side regardless.
I been around long time and we all yearn to learn!
No brace=First generation 5hp block (quickest way to tell and the least desired).
Later I/C 5hp had the braces and a governor hole.
All 4 generations of raptor had braces and no governor.
First 3 generations of raptor came fully dressed.
The latest R4 raptor was only available as a bare block, (No oil drain on the port side of block, only has 1 drain hole opposing side, also the quickest way to tell).
R4 has more material (thicker) around the lifter bore area for added durability. I still recommend welding exhaust side regardless.
I been around long time and we all yearn to learn!
Picked this up tonight. Hope it was a good deal because I told my wife a few times that it was. 
Supposed to have been in dry storage after a friends kid stopped racing supposed to be bored out and he said it was a “runner” but also said he hasn’t had it running for long, just fired it up on starting fluid. But figured the parts were worth the $80 if it didn’t run since I’m getting the parts collection started.
Supposed to have been in dry storage after a friends kid stopped racing supposed to be bored out and he said it was a “runner” but also said he hasn’t had it running for long, just fired it up on starting fluid. But figured the parts were worth the $80 if it didn’t run since I’m getting the parts collection started.Attachments
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
vtdad, I replied to your DM. Yes, the parts could well be worth it considering what new parts bring today (new fuel tanks are $100 alone.)
Does it have a restrictor plate in the engine (between the carburetor and intake port) currently?
Look for ID stampings or engravings on the block -- If it was built by Ward Martin, he would be your next contact to find out more about the internals.
The lack of a builder decal tells me that it was most likely rebuilt by the racer himself, or another backyard builder. Most engine builders are pretty proud of their work and put decals on everything before sending it out the door.
Does it have a restrictor plate in the engine (between the carburetor and intake port) currently?
Look for ID stampings or engravings on the block -- If it was built by Ward Martin, he would be your next contact to find out more about the internals.
The lack of a builder decal tells me that it was most likely rebuilt by the racer himself, or another backyard builder. Most engine builders are pretty proud of their work and put decals on everything before sending it out the door.