School Me on LO206

sundog

sundog

Member
Where can I buy a bare bones engine that's not from a kart shop/engine builder?

Gas or methanol?

Will any of my clone stuff bolt on like mount, chain guard, header, air filter, linkage plate?

Does it have a spec clutch or can I use my Max-O-Torque?

How many hours do you have to run it before it loosens up and how long after that does it start to lose power?

Thanks,
Sundog
 
Where can I buy a bare bones engine that's not from a kart shop/engine builder?
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See this post, as its already being discussed. http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?14504-LO206-Package-where-to-buy

Gas
Some. Air filter is spec'd, The only air filter permitted is the Briggs & Stratton Green Air Filter Part #555729. Pipes are spec'd. Header must be RLV Model 5507 or 5506 for all classes. Silencer must be RLV B91XL (part number 4104) with round baffle holes only.
Limitations on springs and shoes, unless its a Junior, I believe. Max of 9 springs and 6 shoes. Consult Briggs' rules for 2014 which are the same as the 2013, Here's the link
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/~/media/files/racing/briggs 2014 lo206 rules 1-15-14.pdf


I run mine on an oval every week, May to Sept, adjust the valves maybe once a month. Simple check, adjust when needed.
 
I have them.
They are set up for gas and the rules dictate that gas be used.
Your Motor mount, chain guard, and clutch will work.
Your header will not but the muffler will if it's a 1 /5/16" inlet
It will perform very well right out of the box and IF you keep the dirt out of it will last for years.
We have some locally racing on asphalt that are in their 5th season and have never had anything done to them other than change oil, replace the air filter, clean the carb and replace the spark plug.
Check your PMs
 
School Me on LO206

Where can I buy a bare bones engine that's not from a kart shop/engine builder? Don't know why you wouldn't want to purchase from a kart shop or engine builder - but I suppose you could buy one from another racer (who likely bought one from a Briggs Motorsports Center or kart supply house.) I'll disqualify my business since I have a kart shop AND build engines. I could sell one to myself personally, then resell it to you if you'd like. ;)

Gas or methanol? They are designed to be run on pump gas

Will any of my clone stuff bolt on like mount, chain guard, header, air filter, linkage plate?Can't say that much of your clone specific stuff will transfer over -- most clone stuff is single purpose - most of the flathead or animal stuff will transfer to the LO206 easily with the exception of the "spec" items like the air filter and the 5506 or 5507 RLV exhaust header. You can use your same clone motor mount & chain guard.

Does it have a spec clutch or can I use my Max-O-Torque? You can use your Max Torque clutch as long as it complies to the rules.

How many hours do you have to run it before it loosens up and how long after that does it start to lose power? With any engine, break-in is beneficial. Some guys take this to extremes. An hour, two hours, 50 hours? One thing for sure, is that the ring package and ring seal is fantastic, therefore lasts a very long time. I've had LO206 engines that have come through the shop after 2 years of racing that make more power than when they were brand new. I see races won with brand new engines as well, so it's not like you need to search out a used engine over a brand new one (or spend countless hours "loosening up" the engine through wear.) Like Jim, I've got customers with 5 years on their LO206 engines with very minimal maintenance.
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--
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
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You could certainly buy a short block, the proper head casting, gaskets carb and all other needed parts, but it is going to cost a pocket full more and you end up with the same thing. The LO206 can be purchased at any Briggs Motorsport dealer.
 
I seriously doubt that every Briggs Motorsports center and retail outlet for the LO206 comes to this site, or monitors all of the posts. Jim & I probably post on here more than most because we are very passionate about promoting this engine and simply like to help others. Steve has been instrumental as well in getting many of the animal builders together each week with his atcc teleconferences.

We sell the LO206 out of the box, or completely race-ready (just bolt it on your kart!)
You don't need to be a "builder" to assemble this engine.
Some of the work we do to make our race-ready packages requires some specialty tools, but nothing you can't do on your own if you have the tools and knowledge.
Give us a call for our pricing and packages available. I think you'll find that most everyone is very close on pricing when comparing apples to apples.

I do not do compression checks on any of our race engines. I prefer to do a leakdown. 2 - 3% is pretty typical on a fresh LO206. I've seen them slightly higher and lower and see absolutely no advantage on the dyno, despite sealing better.
Hope that answers your questions.

If you have specific questions regarding our LO206 engines, please give us a call or drop me a note.
--
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
sundog said:
So there are only 3 places to buy one? What do you get with the package deal, is there a non package deal? The reason is because I'm a builder and I want to have fun working on it myself. What kind of PSI are you looking for on a compression check?
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Really? there are plenty of people that sell, but you would be hard pressed to find a better deal. I've bought plenty of things from Rieken's Out2Win over the years and they carry LO206. Not to sound like a complete smartass but I will....ever heard of Google....type this in "Briggs and stratton LO206 for sale" I'm sure you will find plenty of people and probably your local kart shop that carries them.

My father is well into 60s, I'm in my 40s, we like to build stuff, we like to race. Instead of building a spec engine, we spent our time building our own chassis and restoring vintage karts. It also allows him to spend his time building vintage McCulloch race engines which he loves and is probably one of the best small displacement 2-stroke engine builders in the country. I really don't get it. Why bother building this engine, especially when the short block is sealed. If you really want to build one, why not buy used one that has 4-5 seasons and tear it apart. If you really want to build engines in my opinion this is not the class for you, you should probably be in the other Animal classes.
 
All righty then, what kind of chassis is good for LO206? I've got a CRG road rebel with 50mm axle 55" rear track CIK body work and I've got a Coyote wide Track LE3 with 50" rear track with full body work. racing asphalt sprint.
 
If you're racing over 350# classes, the CRG seems more logical, but might be too rigid. Thinking that's a 32mm chassis? Might have to play with axle stiffness too.
 
The best chassis will be one that was designed for a 4 stroke class.
 
I have to say that the latest trend is toward the stiffer two stroke chassis in 4 stroke racing. Most of the IKF gold cup crowd has switched to these chassis. Most of podium winners at the grands were all on European 50mm axled chassis. The Road rebel is a great chassis you can't go wrong with CRG. If you look at the Canadian Nationals that ran a lo206 class this year back east almost every one that placed ran a 30-32 mm 50mm axle Euro two stroke kart. See here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HkLlPmfFno Just saying that there is a trend move towards the bigger axled karts in sprint anyway. Depending on the grip or time of the year one may have an edge over the other. We run lots in the rain so that is a consideration for us. It all depends on the tracks you run the time and average temp that you run and the spec tire your lo206 class has I guess.
Greg
 
gregh said:
I have to say that the latest trend is toward the stiffer two stroke chassis in 4 stroke racing. Most of the IKF gold cup crowd has switched to these chassis. Most of podium winners at the grands were all on European 50mm axled chassis. The Road rebel is a great chassis you can't go wrong with CRG. If you look at the Canadian Nationals that ran a lo206 class this year back east almost every one that placed ran a 30-32 mm 50mm axle Euro two stroke kart. See here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HkLlPmfFno Just saying that there is a trend move towards the bigger axled karts in sprint anyway. Depending on the grip or time of the year one may have an edge over the other. We run lots in the rain so that is a consideration for us. It all depends on the tracks you run the time and average temp that you run and the spec tire your lo206 class has I guess.
Greg
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Could you please give me examples of drivers who won 4 cycle GC races on European chassis using 50mm axles? If I am not wrong most races are won by drivers on US made Coyote, Margay, MGM, Razor and so on. Even when some drivers run European chassis I think most are on 40 mm axles, unless things have changed. In theory a 50 mm axle is far from ideal for a low power 4 cycle engine IMO.
 
We've won double digit Duffys with exactly what Greg outlined, and know many more that have as well. Fryers, Schuttes, Stephensons, Agans, are all experts, with 2 or more GN wins, on European chassis. We love the Italkart-Rapido, & Rapido V, it's great equipment for asphalt sprint racing. 50mm axle, 30mm chassis, and and a flavor-of-the-day for axles, from uber soft to hard, dependent on the track conditions. The more rubber that's down, the more important adjustability becomes. The Lawrences & Lloyd Mack proved over the last couple of years how to put Tony Kart at the front of the pack, and their success is as good as it gets. Adjustability is key, and when racing over 350#, front end geometry (25mm front spindles) with top & bottom pills compliment that axle well. The other chassis mentioned above are good too, but we'll only bring 50mm axles to a 4 cycle Grand National race.
 
Surprisingly, the "coasts" have never been closer in regards to the rules packages. Pretty sure 50mm axles are allowed now in the WKA rules, along w/ a 55" ride width in the rear. I spoke w/ Jerry yesterday (WKA) discussing uniformity & compliance, the coasts are on the same platform. Steve Baker's (along with a great group of knowledgeable engine builders) conference calls are working to blend IKF & WKA, with great benefit to the racers. Gary, i'd agree with you if we're talking previous years. Greg's comments above center around "the latest trends", and that's what I responded to.
 
While you are correct in the rules now allowing 50 mm axles they must be run with the typical sit up seat and narrow wheels. Not a single competitor at the gold cup has a 50 mm axle. I agree the trends are working their way down regarding axles. Wasn't long ago they were only for tag, now they are the standard for even Yamaha Jr's. Hp is essentially the same as a can with animals so I dont see why a 50 wouldn't work just fine.
 
We ARE getting closer! IKF specifies a sit-up seat, and the same width of tires as WKA, on sprint tracks. Some racers will use a 7" wheel, w/ a 6" tire to lower the C/G on over-gripped tracks, in 4 cycle classes. In regards to the seat, IKF allows a lay-down seat in road-race applications, not in sprint. The evolution of axles over time has produced various "grades" of hardness, and racers that experiment w/ various axle stiffness, and front end geometry, get faster. In the sealed 206 package, I'm a firm believer that the chassis is the # 1 most important component to success, if everything else is equal.
 
No offense intended, but give me a tight, slightly banked dirt oval. Heavy and wet or dry and slick, doesn't matter.
Seriously though, I am enjoying this thread as I have no idea about sprint or road racing. It sounds really cool though and I would love to go see a race.
 
Ikf sounds like they are essentially the same as the wka manufacturers cup which is 2cycle. The vast majority in gold cup run a laydown seat, non cik bodywork, wide wheels, and 40mm or 1 1/4 axles.

I believe the wider wheels have more to do with changing sidewall stiffness than cg
 
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