set up twin kt100

Yes, you also have a large 3rd bearing on your's, outside the clutch. We had to add that to Hilton's setup.
Mike
 
That's why Buller's rear leg is under the jackshaft barrel. We broke a shaft. I think we just had too hard of material for the shaft but I wasn't going to take a chance.
I'm super happy to have it now. I bought another engine for a spare. Now all of the engines go to Buller. If you know anyone wanting Q-98 pipes, billet gas carbs....I don't remember who made them (ibea maybe) and ignitions, they'll be for sale soon.
Mike
 
Are they ibea 3 jets? if so how much? If i remember they where marked L2, L3,? there were several billet carbs used, baroni, tryton, and a few others..
 
There are 2 pipes, 2 carbs, 3 ignitions....all from green head reedjets. Oh, there are matching headers too.
Mike
 
I'd recommend a 3rd bearing on the rear axle as well, we've found the extra torque engines flex the rear axle a bunch.
 
I was thinking of installing third bearing on axle just to be "safe". Thanks though for the reminder! And Richard, this is just what Ron needs.lol I think I will have just as much fun building it as he will driving it. I have seen that others have had problems with twins ,anybody care to share and remedies?thanks to all
 
There just double trouble, 2 of every thing, Twin yamaha's are cheep for sure, you have just keep in mind your doubling every single issue on the kart. weight on the right side belt alignment issues, carbs. the engines demand are not split equal. you'll have tuning issues as well, one engine won't see the same load demands as the other for some reason. one will want to run more lean the other more rich.

On all the high torque engine combo's we've found you'll need positive mechanical locking systems. so you can mechanically lock belt tensions, chain tensions axle flexing, jackshaft movement. These kinds of torqeing and flexing engines, they just want off the kart all the time. The better you can mechanically lock them down the more you'll have engineered out failure. JMO

Pesonaly I tried them a very short time, I saw the same issues as others pop up right away and I dumped the effort instantly. They are fast no doubt, But you will need to have a undying sense of "I'll make em work" effort.
 
Only problem I had was I didn't have the carbs set right. I make sure everything is exactly the same on both engines and really never have any problems except for planting it to the ground occasionally.

Brian #89
 
Can you sync the carbs like a motorcycle, using a manometer to set throttle position and mix?
I'd use 2 dry clutches to the JS to eliminate the engines fighting each other...
Maybe I'll have to get a 2nd KT-100 and try it out if this YZ doesn't pan out.
 
With Dual Yami's Sullivan has dual belt Birky's that drive the from the middle. With the drivers on the inside the engines are only 11'' wide with about a 1/4'' space between the belts. This is a very reliable package and is lighter than the big 450 mx engines. The engines are tied together through the clutch and you can easily change the engine timing very quickly for different track conditions. I agree that duals can be very finicky but the dual yami's are very easy to deal with if you have 2 stroke experience.jmo
 
I run a dual engine JICA kart and know how many problems you can run into. They will definatly keep you on your toes. I have also had time where they ran good and were flawless. I will say one thing...the good races out way the bad.
 
Blake -- what did you do for drivers on the JICA cranks? They're that weird 13.5* taper or something, IIRC. Did you custom machine belt drivers on 'em to the jackshaft or run the JICA clutches?
 
There's definitely several different ways to do it, I'm thinking about going with conventional engine setup with wet crankshaft clutches, The outside engine about 5 inches back from the the other, just enough to clear the clutch of the front engine, both driving back to a common jackshaft which is behind the outer engine. There is no timing of the two engines with this arrangement, but with two wet clutches handling the power transfer there should be no problems there. It will have a driven gear on each end of the jackshaft and the drive gear right up against the inner engines driven gear with a third bearing on the end of the shaft. Engine change will be quick if necessary and I already have everything to do it this way. Engine width will be right at 13 inches. Brian , I don't know how your getting it 11 inches wide, my cylinders measure 6 1/2 each. The plate that I need to mount them on will be a 12 inch square, How thick does it need to be if made out of aluminum? Most of the inboard engine will be hanging off the frame rails. Jon
 
Jon you may want to mock it up first. Mine had the outboard engine hanging out, there's not much room for your arm with a stock single cylinder engine, much less stuff another one next to the seat.

This one was mounted like your talking about.

 
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