A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

I believe a lot of it is track dependent also. On a track with a lot of grip run higher RPM. On a low bite track I have run a "Highway gear" on the top of the track and only turned 6600 and smoked the field. I have also moved down, on the same track, and turned 7300 and smoked the field.
 
Your best to take it somewhere close to start out for scaling, provided that's an option and learn from there.

Have some experience from imca mods have my own scales nothing alignment wise I'm talking like clutch height tools stuff to help during the week and weekend
 
If you dont have a steering lock how do you get the wheels back in the same spot every time for repeatable scaling procedure? With these karts being so light a 1/16 of a turn is .5% of cross.
 
Have some experience from imca mods have my own scales nothing alignment wise I'm talking like clutch height tools stuff to help during the week and weekend
Caliper will do clutch heights .
Then your standard aray of tools .
Auto matic tire washer , never had one , tire rings , tire bead breaker , tire balancer and refinisher.
 
If you dont have a steering lock how do you get the wheels back in the same spot every time for repeatable scaling procedure? With these karts being so light a 1/16 of a turn is .5% of cross.
If your steering wheel has a strait surface at the bottom, use a digital torpedo level or a small (2" x 2") angle finder. Make sure it reads identical everytime you check,
 
Seeing a lot of gearing issues especially with the predator classes, Heads up I don't know of a track dirt oval small enough that a 12 & even 13 front driver would be correct IF there are any they are REALLY, REALLY small, reminder for predator you CANNOT use same as SR Clone or Flathead the predator will be 3 front drivers bigger on average.
 
Its all about available RPM .
Predator (stock) 5000 max rpm + or- with max hp less then that .
Clone and flathead add 1500 or 2000 rpm to the max rpm .
 
In general what would be the best way to take out a slight push into the corner without adding stagger, basically want to free one up that is a little tight without having to add rear stagger, feels like its turning in just a bit too slow. 2013 Triton running real close to the factory recommended numbers on everything.
thanks in advance and I will give ya some feedback and let you know if it helped.
 
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In general what would be the best way to take out a slight push into the corner without adding stagger, basically want to free one up that is a little tight without having to add rear stagger, feels like its turning in just a bit too slow. 2013 Triton running real close to the factory recommended numbers on everything.
thanks in advance and I will give ya some feedback and let you know if it helped.
Add a little nose weight, or take out a little RF camber like 2 flats.
 
Hard for me to get nose weight without being way over on total weight, already giving up 40 pounds. When you say flats you mean the flat parts of the jam nut correct ? Which might be about 1/2 degree or a little more of camber. Probably will not change the toe that much but I will check it when I get time, thanks
 
Hard for me to get nose weight without being way over on total weight, already giving up 40 pounds. When you say flats you mean the flat parts of the jam nut correct ? Which might be about 1/2 degree or a little more of camber. Probably will not change the toe that much but I will check it when I get time, thanks
Yes but it not quite a 1/2
 
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