Creating Stagger

1999 Rage Silencer

LF65 RF84 LR155 RR69
Front 40%
Left 59%
Cross 64%.

I know the obvious answer is more front weight. without adding weight i have so far lowered the front end by raising spindles, as well as moved seat forward, might look into raising back of seat.

track as 100ft straights and tight banked corners, not conventional kart track.

3/4in stagger, +.5 LF camber -1.5 RF camber.
I would add 5% nose weight, and then tune cross at the track. Keep in mind that if you lower the front end, you may drag the nose on the ground, or the tires on the body. this will create a "push" as the front tires either wont be making proper contact or wont be turning at the right speeds.

Dont be afraid to add weight. I race at 420lbs and went from 10th to 3rd with the 350 class at my last race. A good handling kart will beat a light ill-handling kart every time.
 
I assume flat kart ? Those numbers and staggers it has no choice but to push and it should be bad.
Yes flat track, how do the numbers tell you that its going to push? i understand the front weight causing a push but what does the cross tell you? again im new to this so all the info you can provide with how to read these numbers will help greatly. Thanks
 
I would add 5% nose weight, and then tune cross at the track. Keep in mind that if you lower the front end, you may drag the nose on the ground, or the tires on the body. this will create a "push" as the front tires either wont be making proper contact or wont be turning at the right speeds.

Dont be afraid to add weight. I race at 420lbs and went from 10th to 3rd with the 350 class at my last race. A good handling kart will beat a light ill-handling kart every time.
Great thanks for the help. what recomendations or tips do you have for cross weight adjustment. i do have a weight jacker on back left so cross adjustment would be easy.
 
Yes flat track, how do the numbers tell you that its going to push? i understand the front weight causing a push but what does the cross tell you? again im new to this so all the info you can provide with how to read these numbers will help greatly. Thanks
Flat KART not track ? I'm assuming so, Experience tells me those numbers and stagger dictate push, cross & because of the year chassis.
To little nose 44 % Min 45 % better, to much cross 59 % max, to much left 57.5 %, not enough RF camber 2.25 neg, not enough rear stagger 1 1/4 " min probably more. Leave the LR cassette adjuster for cross alone, move washers.
 
Flat KART not track ? I'm assuming so, Experience tells me those numbers and stagger dictate push, cross & because of the year chassis.
To little nose 44 % Min 45 % better, to much cross 59 % max, to much left 57.5 %, not enough RF camber 2.25 neg, not enough rear stagger 1 1/4 " min probably more. Leave the LR cassette adjuster for cross alone, move washers.
I was thinking maybe It was a champ? Don't they typically fight to get nose weight? I know our outlaw cage karts do.
 
Great thanks for the help. what recomendations or tips do you have for cross weight adjustment. i do have a weight jacker on back left so cross adjustment would be easy.

See below what RP said. I wouldnt mess with the back at all, work the front with the washers first.

Flat KART not track ? I'm assuming so, Experience tells me those numbers and stagger dictate push, cross & because of the year chassis.
To little nose 44 % Min 45 % better, to much cross 59 % max, to much left 57.5 %, not enough RF camber 2.25 neg, not enough rear stagger 1 1/4 " min probably more. Leave the LR cassette adjuster for cross alone, move washers.
 
Your numbers have changed substantially from a week ago, the Kart has gotten 20 pounds heavier. I would prefer a better description of the track. "Tight corners" leaves it hard to imagine.
 
Whats the name of the track? Ive found the google maps measuring tool can help a ton in baseline setup preparation.
 
Your numbers have changed substantially from a week ago, the Kart has gotten 20 pounds heavier. I would prefer a better description of the track. "Tight corners" leaves it hard to imagine.
I actually got new numbers by using a friends set of longacre scales. The previous numbers were using bathroom scales, the weight has not changed 20lbs, just the scales haha.
 
See below what RP said. I wouldnt mess with the back at all, work the front with the washers first.
The track name is MB33 speedway. it is just a local track that a buddy made. By making front end adjustments with it being a C type spindle if i move washers from the bottom to the top on RF spindle it will effectively raise the spindle, and lower cross, does that sound correct? wouldnt that also help put a little more weight on the front?
 
The track name is MB33 speedway. it is just a local track that a buddy made. By making front end adjustments with it being a C type spindle if i move washers from the bottom to the top on RF spindle it will effectively raise the spindle, and lower cross, does that sound correct? wouldnt that also help put a little more weight on the front?
Always with cross adjustment think what it does to the tire, yes picking it up will lower cross for the RF, As flattop points out adjust nose by moving weight around or adding weight to nose NOT by moving washers.
 
I agree, but I dont see the OP asking anything more than "what band-aid can I slap on to stop the bleeding of a terrible setup". Stagger makes a difference, but it wont make a winner out of a junk setup
I disagree with that, sometimes a stagger change can turn a junk setup into a money winner
 
I disagree with that, sometimes a stagger change can turn a junk setup into a money winner
I agree also, but, who's to say that if you change the stagger, and you find the winning combination, you didn't somehow accidentally stumble onto the right stagger. I believe that most like it could be the case.
 
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