A GO TO thread for the new or newer dirt oval racers offering Info & Support

softer at the beginning of the night, harder as the night goes on as long as lap times are getting quicker.
for your conditions on Burris the softest should only be low 50's and hardest of as close to 60 as you can get.
if all your burris are softer, you need to re stock your inventory
All of mine were in the 53-56 range.
 
All of mine were in the 53-56 range.
Range looks ok, may want to try and harden up the 56 set a little
Also looking at your comment on your setup about the outside edge of the RS tires are not wearing? on the rear that is normal from stagger effects, on the front its not, increase the negative RF camber to -3.00 or a little more -3.25 too much tire on the ground if its just leaving an inch.
 
Range looks ok, may want to try and harden up the 56 set a little
Also looking at your comment on your setup about the outside edge of the RS tires are not wearing? on the rear that is normal from stagger effects, on the front its not, increase the negative RF camber to -3.00 or a little more -3.25 too much tire on the ground if its just leaving an inch.
I made some adjustments and raced this weekend. I increased cross a bit. I ended up running second. I should have won, but made an error driving. I think most of my push problem is solved by raising the cross %. But I would still like to free the kart up a bit more.

Thanks for all the help, everybody!
 
Newbie question...Do tracks normally tighten up through the night?
Most get more grip as night goes on If watered enough, however if not enough water and they go dry to quick then they loose grip, watch lap times as they are getting better it's gaining grip once they fall off it's loosing grip.
 
What changes are needed to then keep up with changing track conditions. More grip would require less grip built into the kart and vice versa?
 
What changes are needed to then keep up with changing track conditions. More grip would require less grip built into the kart and vice versa?
Depends on how much grip it gains Sometimes If Burris tires it can go to a harder compound, Normally just less prep, higher air pressure as it gains & open up the split, another sign of track gaining grip is your RPM 's increase with same gear, a chassis adjustment is not normally needed provided you hit tires right, now If going from a low bite night race to a high bite day race then everything applies including chassis adjustment.
 
fuzzed or peeled? they are HT3

thanks in advance
 

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So is this close to correct for the track?
Almost too soft.
You arent hitting them with a real course disc or wire wheel are you? if you are stop it lol
5 or 10 more points harder might be the sweet spot, or that my be how they look to run up front, I look at tires all the time but my final line to make a change lies in lap times, after the heat take notice of the tires as soon as it comes off the track, get back to you pits look at fastest lap and where it was, you want those to be at the end, then compare your times against the quick guys to see what changes to make
 
Almost too soft.
You arent hitting them with a real course disc or wire wheel are you? if you are stop it lol
5 or 10 more points harder might be the sweet spot, or that my be how they look to run up front, I look at tires all the time but my final line to make a change lies in lap times, after the heat take notice of the tires as soon as it comes off the track, get back to you pits look at fastest lap and where it was, you want those to be at the end, then compare your times against the quick guys to see what changes to make
I clean my tires each week with 220 flap disk, then wet sand by hand 220, this tire wasn't a good baseline for us because son didnt drive a good line that night, just wanted to get some input on look of tire, he had to turn wheel hard coming out of two because he entered 1 way to soon and low
 
Lol no 240 sand paper and green scotch brite pad. I just ask because the last race mine were similar to those in pic. Not that bad tho. I was up front and kart handled good for track conditions which was crap.
 
Question on stagger. My old stagger setup was for a track with wide banked turns, new track has tighter turns and maybe half the banking. I believe I remember for tighter/less banking turns more stagger is needed?

If that’s true then my question is, is there a certain way to go about it. Current stagger is 1 and 1/2” up front and 1 and 1/8” in the rear. If I’m to increase it will just growing the RHS tires and even amount be the way to go and leaving the LHS as is ?
 
Question on stagger. My old stagger setup was for a track with wide banked turns, new track has tighter turns and maybe half the banking. I believe I remember for tighter/less banking turns more stagger is needed?

If that’s true then my question is, is there a certain way to go about it. Current stagger is 1 and 1/2” up front and 1 and 1/8” in the rear. If I’m to increase it will just growing the RHS tires and even amount be the way to go and leaving the LHS as is ?
Yes tighter the turns more stagger needed, however that is only for the rear, once you establish the front stagger the kart likes you pretty much leave that as is, It's easier for most people just to grow the rights.
 
I made some adjustments and raced this weekend. I increased cross a bit. I ended up running second. I should have won, but made an error driving. I think most of my push problem is solved by raising the cross %. But I would still like to free the kart up a bit more.

Thanks for all the help, everybody!
Doesn't raising cross make the kart push more?
 
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